The Cao Bang Loop: 3 Days on the Adventure of a Lifetime

What is the Cao Bang loop?

Technically, “Cao Bang Loop” isn’t an official name on the map. It’s a term coined by the travel community, inspired by its more famous neighbor, the Ha Giang Loop.

But that’s where the similarity ends.

While the Ha Giang Loop (around 380 km) is celebrated for vertical cliffs and adrenaline fueled riding, the Cao Bang Loop is defined by diversity. Stretching over roughly 338 km, the route unfolds through a constantly changing landscape, from powerful border waterfalls and hidden stone villages to wide green valleys and jagged limestone peaks.

“Do I need 5 days to see it all?” Many guidebooks say yes. But after nearly a decade navigating these mountains, I’ve learned that the smartest route is not the longest one. A well designed 3 day Cao Bang Loop captures all the highlights, skips the dull connector roads, and takes you straight to the magic.

The Cao Bang Loop: A Smarter 3-Day Itinerary

Day 1: The Border Frontier of Cao Bang

• Route: Cao Bang city - Ma Phuc Pass - Phong Nam - Ngoc Con Valley -  Ban Gioc Waterfall - Khuoi Ky 
• Distance: 115 km

The first day on the Cao Bang loop was absolutely stunning. 

Stop 1: Mã Phục Pass

Leaving the bustle of Cao Bang City behind via National Highway 3, the landscape shifts dramatically. Before you even reach the pass proper, you face the An Lai Slope, a straight, almost vertical ribbon of asphalt that appears to shoot directly into the sky. It is a daunting prelude to the main event.

Rising 700 meters above sea level, Ma Phuc Pass serves as the dramatic gateway to the Global Geopark. Famous for its seven steep, serpentine tiers coiling around limestone pillars, it is often compared to Ha Giang's Tham Ma Pass. Yet, Ma Phuc carries a weight of history that feels far more ancient.

The name “Ma Phuc” (Kneeling Horse) stems from an 11th-century legend where leader Nung Tri Cao’s warhorse collapsed here in sheer exhaustion. To this day, the flanking limestone ranges resemble those weary steeds. While riders must fixate on the hairpin turns, car passengers have the luxury to lean back and trace these legendary shapes etched into the rock.

Stop 2 & 3: Phong Nam and Ngoc Con Valley

The journey continues with a 56km stretch toward the Chinese frontier, a route that feels less like a commute and more like an escape. As you push deeper into the hinterlands, the roadside clutter evaporates. Concrete houses are replaced by limestone corridors, leaving you on a solitary path where the silence is punctuated only by the hum of your engine and the rush of wind against your face.

This isolation is the gateway to Phong Nam, a Tay ethnic hamlet that feels entirely untouched by the 21st century. Framed by the emerald currents of the Quay Son River, the village is a sanctuary of stilt houses and rice paddies. There are no multi-story hotels here, no karaoke bars. Instead, life moves at the pace of the harvest: buffaloes graze lazily, children play in the mud, and villagers in traditional indigo-dyed clothing tend to the fields. It is a place to kill the ignition and simply connect with nature.

For those willing to explore further, Ngoc Con lies just ten kilometers down the road. While it mirrors Phong Nam’s pastoral beauty, Ngoc Con offers a unique reward: the Phi Pha Viewpoint. Reaching this spot requires a steep 1km hike, but the effort pays off with a spectacular panorama. From the summit, you can gaze out over a sea of limestone peaks that blur the invisible line where Vietnam ends and China begins.

>>> Read more: Phong Nam Valley - Fairyland in Cao Bang

Stop 4: Ban Gioc Waterfall

By the time we reach this fifth stop, we have covered nearly 70% of the day’s journey. You might ask, “Why place the most famous landmark near the end?” Think of it as the grand finale, a well deserved reward after traversing over a hundred kilometers of mountain passes.

But there is a tactical reason for this timing. While old guidebooks might tell you to arrive at noon, the local rhythm has shifted. The new “Golden Hour” is 2:00 PM. This is when the upstream hydroelectric dam typically releases its gates, transforming the falls from a gentle flow into a thunderous, turquoise roar. Arriving any earlier means missing this spectacle, while arriving at this time means catching nature at its peak power.

Ban Gioc is not just about size, though standing 30 meters high and stretching 300 meters across, it is undeniably massive and ranks as the largest border waterfall in Southeast Asia. The true magic lies in its atmosphere. The Quay Son River acts as a natural stage dividing Vietnam and China. Here, on a bamboo raft misted by the spray, you will likely find yourself waving to Chinese tourists on their own rafts just meters away. For a fleeting moment, amid the roar of the water and the laughter, the rigid lines on the map seem to dissolve completely.

>>> Read more: Complete guide to Ban Gioc Waterfall

Stop 5: Truc Lam Pagoda

After the rush of the waterfall, a short drive up the mountain offers a necessary shift in perspective. From the grounds of Truc Lam Pagoda, the thunderous Ban Gioc below is reduced to a silent white ribbon, and the river looks less like a political divide and more like a silk thread weaving between two nations.

But this structure is more than just a viewpoint. It is a statement of identity. Built in the tradition of Truc Lam Zen, the only purely Vietnamese Buddhist sect founded by the warrior king Tran Nhan Tong, it embodies the philosophy of “Engaged Buddhism.” Unlike traditions that retreat from the world, Truc Lam connects spiritual practice directly with the destiny of the nation.

You will notice a fascinating pattern if you travel Vietnam’s northern frontiers. From Ha Giang to Lang Son, similar pagodas are strategically placed along the borderlines. They serve as spiritual milestones and a form of soft cultural sovereignty. Here, the ringing of the temple bell at twilight rolls across the valley, quietly affirming that while borders are drawn by politics, the land is safeguarded by culture and peace.

Stop 6: Khuoi Ky village

As twilight settles, we reach our final sanctuary, Khuoi Ky. Unlike typical wooden villages, this one is built entirely from solid limestone. Constructed between 1594 and 1677 as a refuge for the fleeing Mac Dynasty, these stilt houses once served as defensive bastions against bandits. To the local Tay people, stone also carries deep spiritual meaning. They practice Stone Worship and believe stone is the origin of life and the center of the universe.

Tonight, we sleep in history. The village offers authentic homestays beneath traditional yin yang tiled roofs. Imagine sharing smoked pork and corn wine by a warm fire, sheltered by 400 year old stone walls. On Saturdays, you can even join the villagers for a traditional ethnic dance performance, a perfect and grounding end to a high energy day.

Day 2: The Cultural Maze & the Giant Eye of Cao Bang

The second day of this Cao Bang Loop journey will be more relaxed, as we will experience a blend of stunning landscapes and encounters with local people.

• Route: Khuoi Ky village - Nguom Ngao cave - Little Ban Gioc - Quang Uyen - God Eye mountain
• Distance: 84 km

Stop 1: Nguom Ngao Cave, The Tiger’s Den

Just a few hundred meters from our homestay lies Nguom Ngao, a limestone labyrinth formed approximately 400 million years ago. In the local Tay language, Nguom Ngao translates to “Tiger’s Cave”, named after the roaring sound of the wind rushing through the rocks that once tricked villagers into believing wild beasts lurked within.

Inside, the cave is a sensory marvel. It is naturally air conditioned, cool in summer and warm in winter, and filled with unique, mineral rich stalactites that sparkle under the light. Unlike typical caves, the formations here mimic local life. Look closely and you will spot shapes resembling inverted lotus buds and even terraced rice fields.

Oliver’s Adventure Tip: Currently, there are two ways to explore.

• The Dry Route: A leisurely walk on wooden paths, perfect for admiring the formations up close. Best for winter.
• The Wet Route (Rafting): An adventure option where you wade and raft through the underground river. Highly recommended in summer when the water levels are high and the experience is at its most thrilling.

Stop 2: Little Ban Gioc

Driving along the gentle road toward Quang Uyen, we stumble upon Thoong Got, affectionately known as “Little Ban Gioc”.

Think of this spot as nature’s pencil sketch before it painted the masterpiece farther downstream. Located on the middle reaches of the Quay Son River, this landscape is the result of ancient tectonic fractures folding the limestone. It shares the same geological DNA as the famous waterfall, simply expressed on a more intimate scale.

But the atmosphere here is entirely different. While the main falls roar with power, Little Ban Gioc whispers. There are no rafts and no tickets, just a serene cascade framed by bamboo groves. It is the perfect place to park the bike, wander into the village, and observe local life in its most honest and unfiltered form.

Stop 3: Ban Viet Lake

This is a destination you likely will not find in any standard tour brochure. Most operators skip it, and for good reason. The access roads are narrow, winding, and completely devoid of tourist amenities. But that isolation is precisely why I insist on taking you here.

Though technically an artificial hydroelectric reservoir, Ban Viet feels entirely wild. It transforms with the seasons, becoming a cooling emerald expanse perfect for swimming and rafting in the summer, or a rare spectacle of flaming red maple leaves in the winter. It is a place to pause, close your eyes, and soak in a tranquility that belies its man-made origins. Unpacking a picnic here is the perfect choice. Just remember to pack out your trash to keep this hidden gem pristine.

Stop 4: The Artisan Valley (Quang Uyen)

Crossing into Quang Uyen District, the cultural backdrop changes completely. We are now in the heartland of the Nung An people. This area feels less like a standard stopover and more like a living museum of craftsmanship. While modernization has wiped out traditional trades elsewhere, here, the rhythm of life is still dictated by the ancient arts of metal, scent, and paper.

• 1. Phuc Sen Blacksmith Village, The Sound of Steel

You will likely hear Phuc Sen before you see it. As you approach, the peaceful valley air is broken by a rhythmic cacophony, the clang of heavy hammers striking anvils and the sharp hiss of red hot steel plunged into water.

This is the largest and oldest blacksmith village in the region. What makes Phuc Sen extraordinary is its refusal to modernize. Unlike knife villages near Hanoi that rely on industrial stamping machines, the Nung An artisans here remain proudly traditional. Every blade is forged from recycled leaf springs taken from old trucks, shaped entirely by fire, sweat, and muscle.

I tried my hand at the anvil, and trust me, it is a brutal dance. Swinging that hammer demands serious endurance and earns instant respect. The work is exhausting, but holding a finished knife, forged through your own effort under a master’s guidance, is a reward far greater than any souvenir you could buy in a shop.

• 2. Phia Thap Incense Village, the Scent of Tradition

If Phuc Sen is an assault on the ears, Phia Thap is a soothing sanctuary for the nose. Just a few kilometers away, the clang of metal is replaced by a meditative silence, broken only by the soft rustle of bamboo and the pervasive woody fragrance of natural incense.

This village is the spiritual supply line for the entire province. Over 50 Nung An households work here, and it is truly a community effort. From elders with weathered hands to children fresh out of school, everyone plays a part. The process is mesmerizing to watch. Bamboo sticks are dipped into a glutinous mixture of wild leaves and sawdust, then rolled with hypnotic precision.

While the village is incredibly photogenic, especially when bundles of incense are fanned out to dry in the fields like blooming maroon flowers, there is a gritty reality behind the beauty. Standing there for just twenty minutes, I could feel fine sawdust coating my skin and lungs. It gave me a profound appreciation for the villagers who work in this haze from dawn until dusk to keep the tradition alive.

• 3. Dia Tren Paper Village – The Fading Art

Unlike its neighbors, Dia Tren is hidden. With no signs to guide you, finding it requires venturing 2 km off road and effectively leaving the modern world behind. It is a sobering reality. Only three households here still practice the ancient craft of making paper from tree bark.

Inside the matriarch’s house, time seems to stop. I watched as she transformed wood pulp into delicate sheets using bamboo molds, a slow and rhythmic process untouched by machines. The hospitality is just as raw and warm. The family even treated me to hot sweet potatoes fresh from the fire.

After that, the finished paper, pressed with wild forest leaves, carries a faint and pleasant fragrance. I highly recommend buying a handmade notebook here. It is more than a souvenir. It is a direct contribution to keeping this fragile heritage alive.

• 4. Khao Village – The Indigo Soul

Our final stop completes the portrait of the Nung An people. If Phuc Sen provides the tools and Phia Thap the spiritual scent, Khao Village provides the identity: the signature Indigo Blue clothing you see worn throughout these mountains.

This isn’t a look-but-don’t-touch museum. We roll up our sleeves and join the villagers at the dyeing vats and weaving looms. Watching the fabric magically change color as it oxidizes in the air is mesmerizing. You might leave with slightly blue-stained fingers, but you’ll also leave with a profound respect for every thread woven into the local culture.

• Stop 5: God’s Eye Mountain (Nui Mat Than) – The Nomadic Valley

Leaving the intricate craft villages behind, we end our day surrounded by pure and unfiltered nature. Our destination is Nam Tra Valley, home to one of the most surreal geological spectacles in Vietnam, Nui Mat Than, also known as God’s Eye Mountain.

The name explains itself. Piercing through the center of a massive limestone tower is a perfect circular hole, roughly 50 meters in diameter, resembling a giant cyclopean eye gazing down at the valley floor. Locals call it “Phia Piot,” meaning the Mountain with a Hole, and watching the sunset shine directly through this opening is a deeply spiritual experience.

But the mountain is only half the story. The valley below feels completely detached from the rest of Vietnam. With rolling green pastures, free roaming horses, and wandering buffaloes, the landscape looks more like the Mongolian steppes than Southeast Asia.

Well, to conclude the day, you could drive another 27 km back to the familiar comforts of Cao Bang City. However, I chose a more memorable option by camping overnight right here in the valley. There is no need to worry about logistics. Local families now offer full tent rentals and home cooked meals, allowing you to enjoy a relaxed barbecue under the stars with complete peace of mind.

Day 3: Revolutionary History & Tribal Heritage

Today is the biggest driving day. Depending on your energy levels, you can choose to conquer the majestic pass or soak in revolutionary history.

• Option 1 (The Full Experience): God’s Eye Mtn → Pac Bo → Khau Coc Cha Pass. This option allows you to continue onward to Ha Giang, or return to Hanoi by overnight sleeper bus. (146km)
• Option 2 (The Relaxed Route): God’s Eye Mtn → Pac Bo → Return to the city for a coffee & massage. (100km)

Stop 1: Pác Bó Cave

Pác Bó strikes a rare equilibrium between profound history and sublime nature. Even without its political significance, the scenery alone is worth the drive. A limestone amphitheater hidden deep in the jungle creates a setting that feels both intimate and awe inspiring.

The walking trail here is spectacular. On one side, the Lenin Stream glows with an almost iridescent turquoise hue. On the other, a dense forest canopy vibrates with the constant hum of cicadas. The path eventually leads to Cốc Bó Cave, where Hồ Chí Minh lived in secrecy in 1941. Stepping inside, the heavy jungle heat disappears, replaced by cool, damp air that softly illuminates his humble wooden bed and the famous limestone “table” where he worked.

Stop 2: Khau Coc Cha Pass – The Vertical Staircase

Driving west toward Bao Lac, the terrain shifts dramatically. Here, we encounter a geological marvel that seems to defy engineering logic: Khau Coc Cha Pass.

Though only 2.5 km long, the road climbs up a sheer cliff face through 14 brutal hairpin turns. From a distance, it forms a 15-tier structure that looks less like a highway and more like a giant staircase carved into the limestone.

To truly grasp the scale of this “concrete python”, you must hike about 30 minutes to the summit viewpoint. Standing there and looking down at the road coiling tightly below is one of the most surreal, drone-like perspectives you can witness with your own eyes in Vietnam.

Stop 3: Bao Lac – The Tribal Frontier

Just beyond the pass lies the remote district of Bao Lac. This region feels completely detached from the modern world and serves as a sanctuary for some of Vietnam’s most distinct ethnic groups.

• Khuoi Khon (The Black Lolo): High in the mountains, this village is home to the Black Lolo people. Unlike the colorful attire of their neighbors, the Lolo wear distinctive black clothing adorned with intricate and vibrant geometric appliqués. Their isolation has acted as a preservative, keeping their unique dialect and wooden stilt architecture almost entirely intact.

• The Tribal Market: If your visit aligns with a market day, the quiet town suddenly bursts into color. This is not just a place to trade buffaloes or vegetables. It is the social heartbeat of the region. You will see a mesmerizing mix of Dao, Mong, and Lolo villagers descending from the hills to trade goods, share stories, and drink corn wine together.

 In three days, we have touched the Chinese border, walked in the footsteps of revolutionaries, and shared tea with isolated tribes. This route is not just a drive; it is a deep dive into a raw, unfiltered Vietnam that few travelers ever see about Cao Bang loop.

Additionally, if you want to learn more about other places to visit, what to eat, where to stay, and how to get around Cao Bang, you can read my full article about Cao Bang!

Cao Bang Loop by Motorbike or Private Tour: Which is Better?

Many bloggers and travellers admit that riding a motorbike through the Loop is both “unnerving” and “exhausting.” In Kampá, we kept the “view” and removed the “pain.”

💡 My honest verdict:

• Choose the Motorbike if you view the journey as a battle to be won, and you don't mind arriving at the homestay covered in mud and glory.
• Choose the Private Car if you view the journey as a documentary. If you want to maximize your sightseeing time, learn deeply about the culture, and end the day feeling relaxed rather than exhausted, the car is the smartest investment.

You can read more to better understand these two options.

• Vietnam by Motorbike: How to Prepare and the Best Routes?
• Why a Private Tour With a Local Agency?

Conclusion

Some say the Cao Bang loop is just an alternative to the Ha Giang loop. I say it is an upgrade. If Ha Giang is the adrenaline, Cao Bang is the therapy. It trades the bumper-to-bumper traffic and rocky plateaus for a world of emerald waters, golden valleys, and genuine encounters with locals who still smile at strangers. It is not about conquering the road. It is about connecting with it.

Don't just tick it off your bucket list. Experience it the right way. Ready for your Comfort Adventure? Contact Kampá Tour today and let us craft your exclusive journey into the heart of the North.

>>> Discover more of my publications:

• Ha Giang 101: Why Should You Visit in 2026?
• Can You Fly a Drone in Vietnam?
• Hmong in Vietnam: Stories from the Northern Highlands
• Bac Ha, Vietnam: 7 Best Things to Do in the White Plateau
• Cycling in Vietnam: The Ultimate Guide
• Homestay in Vietnam: The best way to live like a local!