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Don't Visit Cao Bang, Vietnam Without Knowing These 7 Things!
Travelers always ask me, ‘Oliver, should I do the Ha Giang Loop?’ I get it, it’s famous. But then I ask them, ‘Do you want the famous trip or the unforgettable trip?’ So, for many years, I have been leading adventure lovers through my hometown, Cao Bang. This is the pristine and breathtaking adventure that Ha Giang and Sapa once were.
With its natural resources, unique ethnic culture, and rich history, you will be overwhelmed by this mountainous region of Northern Vietnam! Here is my “cheat sheet” with over 7 years of experience in the profession.
Let me show you why you should skip the crowds and discover Vietnam’s biggest secret!
- 1. Is Cao Bang Worth Visiting?
- 2. Where is Cao Bang?
- 3. When to Visit Cao Bang?
- 4. Top Things To Do In Cao Bang
- Ban Gioc Waterfall
- Nguom Ngao Cave
- Phong Nam - Ngoc Con Valley
- Traditional craft villages
- Hike Through Cao Bang's Spectacular Landscapes
- Stay with Ethnic Minorities in Cao Bang
- 5. What to Do in Cao Bang Beyond the Ordinary?
- Khuoi Ky Stone Village
- Ba Quang Burning Grass Hill
- Mount Mat Than or God's Eye Mountain
- Visit Important Historical Sites in Pac Bo
- Nightlife in Cao Bang city
- 6. How Many Days Do You Need in Cao Bang?
- 7. Where to Stay in Cao Bang?
- In Cao Bang City
- In the Countryside
- 8. What to eat?
- 9. How to Get to Cao Bang from Hanoi?
- How to Get Around Cao Bang?
- 10. Bonus: Suggested Itineraries
- Conclusion
1. Is Cao Bang Worth Visiting?
A million yeses, and more besides: Cao Bang offers everything that Ha Giang and Sapa have.
To truly convince you, let's make a fair comparison.
| Cao Bang | Ha Giang | Sapa | |
| Vibe / Atmosphere | Authentic, tranquil, off-the-beaten-path, exploratory. | Rugged, adventurous, iconic, increasingly busy. | Developed, accessible, resort-like, tourist-focused. |
| Primary Activity | Exploration by motorbike or car, caving, cultural immersion. | Motorbike loop, tackling challenging mountain passes. | Trekking through terraced fields, relaxation. |
| Landscape Highlights | UNESCO Geopark: Waterfalls, caves, lakes, karst valleys, green plains. | Dramatic karst peaks, deep canyons (Ma Pi Leng), winding passes. | Famous terraced rice fields, Fansipan mountain. |
| Tourist Density | Low. Solitude is easily found. | Medium to High, concentrated on the main loop. | High, especially in the town center and popular trekking routes. |
| Best For... | Discerning explorers, photographers, cultural travelers seeking authenticity. | Adrenaline-seeking motorbike enthusiasts, those wanting iconic loop photos. | Families, first-time trekkers, travelers prioritizing comfort and amenities. |
So what is the biggest difference? Cao Bang was recognized by UNESCO as a Global Geopark in 2018. This isn't just a title; it recognizes a landscape of global importance. Unlike the predominantly arid karst peaks of Ha Giang, Cao Bang is a diverse mosaic featuring interconnected lake systems like Thang Hen, vast green plains, and of course, majestic waterfalls.
And while Sapa, a French colonial-era resort, is famous for its terraced fields, it has now become overcrowded, with some even calling it "nearly a tourist theme park". Meanwhile, Cao Bang offers equally beautiful rice paddies, but they are not terraced, blanketing entire valleys, especially in the Ban Gioc area. More importantly, its ethnic diversity is richer and the cultural experience far more authentic. The craft villages here are real working communities, not tourist showcases.
2. Where is Cao Bang?
Cao Bang is a mountainous province in the Northeast of Vietnam, about 300-335 km (a 6 to 8-hour drive) from the capital Hanoi. Cao Bang province borders Ha Giang province to the West, Bac Kan province to the South, famous for Ba Be Lake, while the North and East borders Guangxi province of China.
With the terrain bordering the points I mentioned above, I usually combine them into a route that I call the "Northeast Vietnam Route" including Hanoi -> Ha Giang -> Cao Bang -> Ba Be.
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>>> Worth Knowing: The name 'Cao Bang' means 'flat land between high mountains' or 'high plateau' and is pronounced /kaʊ bəŋ/.
3. When to Visit Cao Bang?
I get this question a lot. Honestly, there’s no single right answer. My hometown is beautiful all year, so the "best" time truly depends on what you hope to see and do. Let's find the right season for your trip.
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August - October: Come now to see Ban Gioc waterfall at its most powerful and the rice terraces turning to gold before harvest.
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November - December: The cool, dry air is ideal for trekking among wild buckwheat and sunflower fields. Just be sure to pack warm layers for the cold nights.
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March - April: For a quieter trip, this season offers mild weather with hillsides dotted in pear and plum blossoms and far fewer crowds.
In my point of view, the best time to visit is from July to September. This is right after the rainy season, so the waterfalls are full and powerful, the landscape is lush and green, and the rice fields turn a beautiful golden color.
>>> Map of the must-sees in Cao Bang Province
Please click on the '[ ]' at the top right for better visibility of the Cao Bang map!
4. Top Things To Do In Cao Bang
Let me show you the Eastern Cao Bang route. This is the loop that I take my guests on, and every single one of them tells me it's just as wild and beautiful, if not more so, than Ha Giang or Sapa, but without the crowds.
Ban Gioc Waterfall
Αbout a 1.5-hour drive (90km) from Cao Bang to Ban Gioc Waterfalls, this scenic natural wonder stands as one of Southeast Asia's greatest and the largest waterfall in Vietnam, perched on the border between China and Vietnam (Ban Gioc and Detain Falls - 德天瀑布). It is also known as the fourth largest border waterfall in the world. With a colossal drop of over 60 meters and a width of 300 meters, it cascades down in layers of rock, creating a mist that dazzles. When you take a boat near the falls, it is even more breathtaking than you can imagine.
Near the falls lies Truc Lam Buddhist Temple, a peaceful spot to recharge and connect with nature. Climbing to the top of the temple with me offers a panoramic view of the plains, with the soothing sound of Ban Gioc Falls in the distance, while lush green mountains surround you. Located on the Quay Son River, Ban Gioc Waterfalls is truly one of the natural wonders not to be missed during your visit to Northern Vietnam.
Important Note:
- Do not use a drone. This is a border area, so it's very sensitive. The border guards on both sides are known to carry jamming guns that can bring down drones. It’s really not worth risking your drone or getting into legal trouble just to take a cool photo.
- Your phone might automatically switch time zones. Since Ban Gioc is so close to China, some phones will think you're in China and move the time one hour ahead. This has caused confusion for travelers who thought they missed their bus and rushed off too early.
- Anyways this is important: from October to April, the waterfall's flow is naturally weaker. However, a dam upstream releases water daily. For the most impressive view during these months, you must visit between 10:30 AM and 1:00 PM. That’s when the flow is at its peak, and it makes a world of difference.
>>> Quick information about Ban Gioc falls:
- 4.5/5 stars based on 9,552 ratings on Google reviews
- Entrance Fee: 45,000 VND ($2) per person
- Raft: 100,000 VND ($4) per 15 minutes
- Horse ride: 20,000 VND per 5 minutes (nearly $1).
Nguom Ngao Cave
As one of Vietnam's most magnificent natural wonders, Nguom Ngao Cave is second only to the famed caves of Phong Nha Ke Bang. This cave's origins trace back over 300 million years, and it has been known since 1921. While stretching for a little over 2 kilometers, only 1 kilometer is open to the public. One thing is, in exciting news, a new tour named 'Nguom Ngao Cave – Part of Ban Thuon' has been extended nearly 3 kilometers deeper into the cave, which includes trekking and boating.
Believe me! You will have the chance to delve further into the cave by boat, encountering cliffs to climb, rafts to navigate, and streams to wade through in the darkness, and admire stalactites formed from water droplets over millions of years.
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>>> Information about Nguom Ngao cave:
- 4.6/5 stars based on 468 ratings on Google reviews
- The price of the shortcut route is 45,000 VND ( about 1.91 USD).
- The long route costs around 200,000 VND (or 8.51 USD).
Phong Nam - Ngoc Con Valley
I always tell my travellers that if you want to truly understand the spirit of Cao Bang, spend a night in Phong Nam valley. Because there is nothing like waking up in the morning mist, watching the limestone mountains appear in the mist, surrounded by only the sound of birds and not a single tourist. However, even if you don’t spend the night, it is still worth trekking around Phong Nam Valley, taking a deep breath, and exploring the quaint Tay villages. That is the definition of ‘unforgettable trip’ that I mentioned at the beginning.
This serene location, part of the Non-Nuoc Cao Bang UNESCO Global Geopark, nestled in the Trung Khanh district and just a 45-minute drive from Ban Gioc Waterfall, is just so beautiful and untouched, with water buffalo, hidden caves, and beautiful roads, surrounded by rivers and rice fields. They also have a market in the town on the weekends, offering really fresh fruit and cheap souvenirs.
There are two things to do in the valley:
- Take a leisurely walk along the paths leading to the end of the valley to see the waterfall. The distance is around 3-4 kilometers from the valley's starting point.
- Hike up to the viewpoint, which takes about an hour. The trail can be difficult to find and navigate, so it’s recommended to have a guide who can help locate the trailhead and lead the way.
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>>> Worth Knowing: Cao Bang province is one of the seven best places in Vietnam to trek through breathtaking rice fields. Curious about the other six? Discover them all here: 7 Amazing Places to Catch Stunning Rice Fields in Vietnam!
Traditional craft villages
Tourism in Cao Bang has only really attracted in recent years, and in this provincial capital, agriculture and handicrafts are still put first with craft villages still existing and participating in production as a spearhead of the economy in Cao Bang.
Not bustling with visitors coming and going like the weaving village in Lung Tam (Ha Giang) or Cat Cat in Sapa. Craft villages in Cao Bang are quietly nestled in the valleys here, still quietly increasing production and still warmly welcoming visitors when they come.
- Phia Thap: Famous for incense sticks
- Lan Duoi: Specializes in bamboo weaving
- Lung Ri: Known for terracotta yin-yang tiles
- Phuc Sen: Renowned for blacksmithing
- Dia Tren: Famous for traditional paper
These villages, set in remote areas, are dedicated to preserving their traditional crafts with passion and enthusiasm, aiming to spread their rich cultural heritage to the world.
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Hike Through Cao Bang's Spectacular Landscapes
When hiking in Cao Bang, one cannot forget the Khau Coc Cha mountain pass, starting from Bao Lac. Although it is not precisely one of the 'Four Great Passes' such as Ma Pi Leng, O Quy Ho, Khau Pha, or Pha Din, Khau Coc Cha still holds undeniable attractions for those with a sense of adventure.
It is no exaggeration to say that this is one of the most wonderful creations from human hands! Well, it has 15 steep steps and 14 curves, each unique in itself. From the ascent of the pass, the road winds for some distance through the climb, then slips into the forest for a trekking experience to admire the pass from above, which takes 30 minutes to conquer!
This is not only a mountain pass but also a vital route for many villages. On this route, you will meet the H’Mong, Tay, Nung, Dao, Lo Lo (Ethnicity Vietnam) ethnic groups scattered around the mountain slopes.
Stay with Ethnic Minorities in Cao Bang
For me, the landscapes are only half the story. The real soul of Cao Bang is its people. That's why I always tell travelers: to truly understand my home, you have to spend a night in a homestay, especially in the Bao Lac area, and Quang Uyen.
This is where you'll feel the incredible warmth of the local ethnic communities like the Tày, Nùng, and H'mong. Sharing a meal you helped prepare or just laughing with a family is an experience you can't get from a hotel. As we walk through the villages, I love pointing out the unique architecture, like the beautiful 'Yin Yang' tiles on a Tày roof or the thick earthen walls of a H'mong 'trinh tuong' home.
If your schedule allows, let's try to visit the Bao Lac Market, and Quang Uyen Market. It only happens every five days according to the lunar calendar, and it's a vibrant explosion of color where all the local communities come together. It's an authentic experience you won't find in any guidebook.
>>> Related article
- Immerse in Culture: Staying with Local Host
- 7 days, 7 ethnic markets in Northern Vietnam you can’t miss
- The Hmong Ethnicity in Vietnam
5. What to Do in Cao Bang Beyond the Ordinary?
Khuoi Ky Stone Village
Just a short distance from Ban Gioc Waterfall, Khuoi Ky stone village is a lesser-known spot worth visiting in Cao Bang, Vietnam. Home to 14 Tay ethnic households, this ancient village is believed to be over a thousand years old. Its unique stilted stone houses have stood the test of time, preserving both structure and charm.
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So, I bet a visit to Khuoi Ky village lets you connect with local life, join simple village activities, and enjoy the peaceful setting of forested hills and limestone peaks.
Ba Quang Burning Grass Hill
Just a one-hour drive from Khuoi Ky, Ba Quang Grass Hill is a haven for both amateur and professional photographers, offering a blend of wild, idyllic beauty and vast stretches of yellow grass.
This destination is the best choice for travelers who love trekking. Also known as Ba Quang Burnt Grass Hill, it showcases lush green grass stretching across the undulating hillsides from May to October each year.
From October to February of the following year, the grass hill enters the burning grass season, creating a scene full of poetic and impressive yellow and orange colors.
>>> Good To Know: Golden grasses reaches its optimum beauty from the months of October to February hence this site is a favorite of many professional photographers. For enhanced experience, one may carry a drone to take an aerial view of the vast scenery. Read More: Top 6 Best Places for Trekking in Vietnam
Mount Mat Than or God's Eye Mountain
Of all the places I take travelers, this one might be the most magical. I call it Mount Mat Than, or God's Eye Mountain, and it shows two completely different sides depending on the season.
It’s a stunning part of the Thang Hen Lake system and a jewel of the Non Nuoc Cao Bang UNESCO Global Geopark. But what makes it truly special is its transformation.
Visit during the wet season, and you’ll find a vast, serene lake. The mountain's "eye" reflects perfectly on the water, creating a tranquil scene straight out of a painting.
But for me, the real magic happens in the dry season. The water recedes, and the entire valley becomes a massive green steppe with rolling hills and winding streams. It’s my absolute favorite spot in Cao Bang for camping, trekking, and cycling in the wide-open spaces, a sight you’ll never forget.
>>> Facts: The reason for this name is that in this grassland area, there is only one mountain, and that mountain has a hole. In the summer, you can see the sun through the hole in the mountain, like a god eye. This is how the name was born
Visit Important Historical Sites in Pac Bo
If history and landscape are what attract you, then visiting Pac Bo historical site with me will be a memorable memory. Bestowing historical significance on Cao Bang since the Franco-Vietnamese War, this site is an important revolutionary landmark, with Pac Bo located 52 km from the city center. This is where Ho Chi Minh Road began, also known as 'km 0'.
Some of the stuff you can discover here includes the Ho Chi Minh Memorial, Coc Po Cave, Lenin Stream, Karl Marx Mountain, the Ho Chi Minh Stone Worktable, and more. These are all items of national importance in Vietnam's fight to free itself from foreign domination.
Nightlife in Cao Bang city
So, you enjoyed the beautiful mountains, rivers, and rich culture of the ethnic people in Cao Bang, and are still looking for excitement? The city's nightlife is the perfect choice. Within a radius of only 5 kilometers, you can find all the night-time restaurants, local specialties, recreational facilities for all ages, and night markets that are vibrant and packed with both tourists and locals.
For the liveliest visit, choose any Friday to Sunday evening (from 6 pm to 11 pm) when the walking street hosts a grand collision of culture, cuisine, music, and mingling. Unlike other tourist areas where prices could be 'hiked', here, everything is fairly priced for both tourists and locals. A trip worth taking!
6. How Many Days Do You Need in Cao Bang?
- 3 days and 2 nights is a reasonable amount of time for you to visit the main spots in Cao Bang. Three days allows us to comfortably complete the famous eastern loop, see the "top attractions", and truly soak in the atmosphere without constantly watching the clock. It gives you time to breathe.
- If you're a true explorer and want to experience everything my hometown has to offer, then 4 or 5 days is a dream. This gives us time to tackle the more challenging routes like the Khau Coc Cha Pass, visit more of the traditional craft villages, or simply spend a whole afternoon relaxing by a stream in Phong Nam Valley. This is for those who want to go beyond the highlights and find the hidden gems.
No matter how long you stay, my best advice is to split your accommodation. Spend your first night in Cao Bang City to get settled, and then spend at least one night in a homestay out in the countryside near Ban Gioc. This way, you get both the convenience of the city and the unforgettable, authentic experience of waking up in the heart of the mountains.
7. Where to Stay in Cao Bang?
In Cao Bang City
It's best to start in Cao Bang City to get your bearings.
- For a Standard Hotel: Muong Thanh Luxury or Sunny Hotel are both good, reliable bets.
If you like to stay in a homestay, then I'd recommend Mo Mo Homestay (right near the center of Cao Bang walking street). The owner, Ha, is genuinely helpful, and her motorbike rental is next door. In addition, her husband, Mr. Khanh, will help you create an itinerary. It's an efficient one-stop shop to start your trip.
In the Countryside
For a more memorable experience, I recommend staying out in the countryside.
- Near Ban Gioc Waterfall: Look at Lan's Homestay or Khuoi Ky Eco Homestay. They're located right within the Khuoi Ky Stone Village, offering a proper local stay just 10 minutes from the falls.
- For Peace and Quiet: If you want something more peaceful with serious views, Phong Nam Station is the choice. It's in the Phong Nam Valley, and the rooms look directly out over the landscape.
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8. What to eat?
You can't truly know a place until you've tasted it. Cao Bang's cuisine is a reflection of its landscape and people, authentic, hearty, and unforgettable. These are the dishes you must try:
- Cao Bang Steamed Rice Rolls (Bánh cuốn Cao Bằng): Forget the dipping fish sauce you know. Here, we ladle the delicate rice rolls into a steaming bowl of savory pork bone broth. Often with an egg steamed inside, this dish is the perfect start to a cool mountain morning.
- Seven-Flavor Roast Duck (Vịt quay 7 vị): This is the region's celebratory dish. The secret is in the seven-spice marinade, which includes the local mac mat fruit, imparting a unique aroma. The result is exceptionally flavorful meat with perfectly crispy skin.
- Ant-Egg Cake (Bánh trứng kiến): For the adventurous foodie, this is a seasonal specialty. The filling of nutty ant eggs is mixed with minced pork and peanuts, wrapped in sticky rice dough, and steamed in fig leaves.
- Other Specialties: Don't miss the chance to try the famous Trung Khanh Chestnuts, Kitchen-Smoked Beef Jerky (Thịt bò gác bếp), Smoked Sausage (Lạp Xưởng), and the unique Sour Pho (Phở chua).
>>> A small note: Most people in Cao Bang are not fluent in English because it is not really touristy yet, so don't be too upset if you have to use Google Translate to ask for prices or order food if needed. Also, there are still very few stores that accept QR code payments, so make sure you always have cash on you.
9. How to Get to Cao Bang from Hanoi?
If you are starting your journey from Hanoi, I will tell you that the distance of 300 km is quite far, so there are 2 popular ways to answer the question “How to get to Cao Bang from Hanoi?”:
- Sleeper bus/limousine (The Most Common Choice):
This is how most travelers do it. The "limousine" here is a luxury van, and it's your best bet for a comfortable daytime trip. For those short on time, the overnight sleeper bus is a great option. You travel while you sleep and save money on a night's accommodation. The buses run from these bus stations, with prices starting from 200,000 - 400,000 VND ($7 - $15). Khanh Hoan, 42, Duc Ngoc, Vinh Dung, and Thanh Ly are some of the bus companies you can choose from.
>>> My advice: You can check the schedule and bus routes on the 12go.Asia website.
- Motorbike:
This is for experienced, adventurous riders. If you have your International Driving Permit (IDP), it's an incredible way to see the countryside. The roads are nicely paved but be prepared for plenty of hills and winding turns.
My advice:
#1. Since the road to Cao Bang is quite winding, if you have vestibular problems and get carsick easily, you should prepare motion sickness pills. They are quite cheap at only $0.5 and can be easily found at any pharmacy you see.
#2. Regarding driving, make sure you have an IDP because traffic fines in Vietnam are quite high ($80-$305). I know that neither you nor I want to get into trouble with the traffic police, right? xD
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How to Get Around Cao Bang?
Once you’re here, you’ll want to explore the mountains and valleys. In Cao Bang, the main modes of transport will be 4-wheeled vehicles and 2-wheeled vehicles.
- Rent a motorbike: You can rent a good bike in Cao Bang city for around $10-15 a day.
- Rent an “Easy Rider”: If you’re not confident in driving but still want to experience a motorbike, an “easy rider” is the perfect solution. This is a local guide (like me!) who will drive the motorbike for you, so you can sit back, relax and soak in the beautiful scenery without any stress.
- By car: Grab doesn’t operate in Cao Bang! So buses, and taxis are your options. Basically, buses are the cheapest but it’s hard to get a grasp of the route for someone who doesn’t speak Vietnamese like you, and it’s easy to miss the stop information (not recommended). Coaches and buses are the best, they will pick you up and take you to your destination.
>>> Note: Grab may not work well in remote areas like Cao Bang, so hiring a driver for a full day is more cost-effective than paying by distance; especially for longer trips like Cao Bang to Ban Gioc Waterfall, which typically costs between $51 and $68.
10. Bonus: Suggested Itineraries
Option 1: The Classic Cao Bang Loop (3 Days)
This route is adjusted for a more comfortable pace, allowing you to truly enjoy each location.
- Day 1: Cao Bang City → Ban Gioc Waterfall → Nguom Ngao Cave → Overnight in Khuoi Ky Stone Village.
- Day 2: Explore Phong Nam Valley → Mount Mat Than → Return to Cao Bang City.
- Day 3: Cao Bang City → Pác Bó Historical Site → Drive back to Hanoi.
Option 2: The Northern Vietnam Adventure (7+ Days)
For a longer trip, you can easily combine Cao Bang with other incredible destinations like Ha Giang, Ba Be Lake, and more.
- Day 1: Hanoi → Hoang Su Phi
- Day 2: Explore Hoang Su Phi's rice terraces
- Day 3: Hoang Su Phi → Ha Giang City
- Day 4: Dong Van → Nho Que River → Meo Vac → Bao Lac
- Day 5: Bao Lac → Quang Uyen (Cao Bang)
- Day 6: Quang Uyen → Ban Gioc Waterfall (overnight near the falls)
- Day 7: Ban Gioc → Ba Be Lake
- (Day 8): Explore Ba Be Lake & Return to Hanoi
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Check out the scenic route through Vietnam, with this itinerary through Cao Bang:
Conclusion
I’m not writing this to sell tours. I’m writing it because I grew up here and I believe Cao Bang deserves to be known more, and rightly so.
If you’ve ever been overwhelmed by the crowds in Sapa or struggled on the Ha Giang pass, then perhaps the ‘unforgettable’ trip I promised is waiting for you here.
>>> Discover more attractive destinations in Vietnam:
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Quiz: Do you really know about Vietnam?
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