My Son Sanctuary: An Indian Legacy Near Hoi An

My Son Vietnam Shrine is a renowned tourist destination located in Quang Nam province. It is an architectural complex dating back centuries, built by the ChamPa people. More than 32 temples with unique architecture have been preserved to this day. Preserved through the centuries, My Son Sanctuary intrigues visitors with its fascinating history and mysteries. Let's discover this world cultural heritage site, which is hundreds of years old.

Written by Oliver PHUNG (Local expert)Updated on 18-07-2024

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1. Where Is My Son, And How Do I Get There?

My Son Sanctuary is located in Duy Phu Commune, Duy Xuyen District, Quang Nam Province, about 40 km southwest of Da Nang City and 45 km west of Hoi An, equivalent to a one-hour drive. 

This temple complex spans a valley about 2 kilometers wide, with two mountain ranges surrounding it that form the watershed of the sacred Thu Bon River. The natural wall of rocky mountains strategically guards the archaeological site of My Son, giving it historical importance.

To get there, you have two main options: a local bus or a taxi. If you prefer riding a motorcycle, you can also inquire at your hotel, as they often provide various transportation options. A recommended route is from Hue to Hoi An, with a suggested stop at My Son along the way, as it is located between Hue and Hoi An.

2. Overview Of My Son Sanctuary In Vietnam

My Son Sanctuary is considered one of the most captivating archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. Though smaller and having endured the vicissitudes of history, it may not be as grand as Bagan in Burma, Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Borobudur in Indonesia, or Ayutthaya in Thailand.

However, it remains a formidable vestige of the Cham civilization that disappeared in the seventeenth century.

From the fourth to the thirteenth centuries, the coastline of what is now central Vietnam was the cradle of the Cham civilization, inspired by Hindu Indian spirituality. An unsung rival of Angkor, the Kingdom of Champa was the easternmost of the "Hinduized" kingdoms.

Throughout central Vietnam, intricately carved Cham monuments, constructed of brick and stone, provide a striking contrast to their natural and social surroundings—the plains and rice paddies around them and the colossal backdrop of the Truong Son mountain range.

Thus, the My Son Sanctuary, which served as the religious and political capital of the Kingdom of Champa in the 4th century, stands as an exceptional site of great cultural and artistic value in Southeast Asia, recognized by UNESCO.

3.  History

My Son is a Hindu-Indian temple complex built by the Champa community. The Kingdom of Champa, an independent country, existed from 192 to 1832 under various names: Lam Ap (192-757), Hoan Vuong (757-875), Chiem Thanh (875-1471), and Panduranga-Champa (1471-1832).

Between the 4th and 13th centuries, this shrine drew its spiritual roots from the Hinduism of the Indian subcontinent. Influenced by this culture, many temples were dedicated to Hindu deities such as Krishna, Vishnu, and especially Shiva. My Son served as a place of worship, the political and religious capital, and a burial site for kings and religious leaders of Champa.

After the fall of these kingdoms in the early 19th century, My Son was abandoned for centuries. Rediscovered by Westerners in 1885, the French began documenting, excavating, and inventorying the site in 1903-1904. Led by Henri Parmentier, they classified 72 monuments into 13 groups based on estimated construction dates and unique structural elements in the archaeological site of My Son.

Yet, during the Vietnam War, My Son was used as a strategic base by the Viet Cong and was extensively bombed by the Americans, reducing the number of monuments to 17, divided into eight groups.

Despite this, My Son Sanctuary remains the most significant construction of the Champa civilization. It uniquely showcases the cultural exchanges of the time, illustrating how the indigenous society adapted to Indian Hindu influences. This significance led to its designation as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1999.

4. What to Do and See in My Son Sanctuary

• Visit to My Son Shrine Museum

When it comes to My Son Shrine, the temple complex is the primary attraction. However, we recommend starting with a visit to the My Son Shrine Museum, just 100 meters behind the ticket office. The museum, offering permanent and thematic exhibitions, shares invaluable historical, archaeological, and religious insights into My Son and the Cham civilization. Free admission makes it a worthwhile stop to enhance your understanding of the site you’re about to explore.

In front of the museum, a bridge and road lead to the My Son complex. While it's entirely possible to reach the site on foot, you can take one of the free electric buses that depart frequently. This way, you can also save your energy for walking around the site and fully enjoy the historical and mysterious beauty of the temples.

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• Exploring the architecture of Temple Complex

Apart from the religious features that deeply reflect the cultural values of My Son Sanctuary, its architecture is the most striking aspect of this World Heritage site. The site’s creations, influenced by Indian style, are unique. Each temple was built to honor a different dynasty, reflecting distinct architectural styles and unique features.

With numerous outstanding temples and monuments, it may take you half a day to experience all the beauty of My Son. You will be able to observe ancient sculptures, tombs, and relics. If you are interested in history or art, this is a great opportunity to discover and learn about the unique design of temple complexes, bringing a prosperous past civilization to life.

The My Son temple complex consists of three parts: a solid tower base representing humanity, the tower body symbolizing the spirit, and the upper tower signifying communication with daily life symbols such as flowers, leaves, and animals. The first temples in the My Son complex, built of wood in the 4th century, were destroyed by a massive fire whose cause remains unknown. Subsequent kings rebuilt these temples in wood, then in bricks without mortar, and finally in limestone.

Most structures that remain today in My Son are made of red brick. Even the decorative carvings on Cham temples were carved directly on the bricks themselves, rather than on sandstone slabs inserted into brick walls, as seen in the Cambodian temple of Bakong, built in the ninth century. Currently, the construction techniques used to build My Son Shrine are not completely understood, including the firing of bricks, the mortar between them, and the decorative carvings on the bricks.

The site consists of four types of religious structures:

1. Kalan: A brick monument, generally tower-shaped, housing a deity.
2. Mandapa: An entrance corridor leading to a shrine.
3. Kosagrha or "firehouse": A structure used to store sacred artifacts or for culinary purposes for the deity.
4. Gopura: A gateway tower that marks the entrance to the walled temple complex.

When Henri Parmentier began his studies at My Son in 1899, he discovered the remains of 71 temples. He classified them into 14 groups, including 10 main groups, each composed of several temples. For identification purposes, he assigned a letter to each of these main groups: A, A', B, C, D, E, F, G, H, and K.

Within each group, he assigned numbers to the buildings. Thus, "My Son E1" refers to the My Son building in the "E" group assigned the number "1." These temple groups describe six out of seven artistic styles and phases of development of Champa's architectural and artistic heritage.

Besides the architectural ruins, you can enjoy the surrounding natural beauty, the pure freshness, and the calm atmosphere.

Entrance fee: Around 150,000 VND  (~6 USD) for adult and 40,000 VND (roughly USD 2 dollars)/per person for children. 

Opening hours: Daily from 6:30 am to 5:00 pm

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• Discovering local performances

Visiting My Son and missing the enigmatic Shiva dance would truly be a missed opportunity. Derived from Hindu mythology, the dance is performed in the tranquil surroundings of the Sacred Valley, captivating visitors with its mystical allure. You'll appreciate how the dancers demonstrate their flexibility, appeal, and mystery. 

My Son Cham music is a special element of the Shiva dance. It is a spiritual product of a powerful empire and culture that flourished hundreds of years ago.

This religious dance praises Shiva's power to destroy dark forces such as tigers, snakes, and the dwarf Muyalaca. According to Hinduism, Shiva is one of the three most powerful gods: the god of destruction (Shiva), the god of world stability (Vishnu), and the god of creation (Brahma).
 

For the Cham, the Shiva dance is an art form with religious and mystical elements that are extremely attractive to visitors. The dances are performed in the dark, misty space next to the temple, creating a stunning combination that delights tourists.

5. Useful Tips For Visiting My Son Sanctuary

• Location and Travel: My Son Shrine is located about fifty kilometers west of Hoi An Old Town, roughly an hour's drive away. You can easily explore the site of the Kingdom of Champa on a half-day trip from Da Nang or Hoi An.

• Best Time to Visit: To avoid the crowds, consider visiting My Son Shrine in the afternoon, starting around 2:00 pm.

• Prepare for Your Visit: As you pass the ticket office, take a moment to read the posters detailing the history of My Son. This will enhance your experience, especially if you explore without a guide. Check the weather forecast and bring essentials like a hat, umbrella, or raincoat. Don’t forget to drink water and wear comfortable sports shoes.

• Exploring the Temples: There are four main temple groups to visit: A, B, C, and D. Start with Group C, then move to Group B, the center of the site. Group D is more scattered and damaged, and finally, visit Group A.

• Safety Tips: Stick to the marked trails and avoid venturing into the forest alone, as demining is still ongoing in the area.

My Son Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of Vietnam's most important and beautiful cultural and historical destinations. This archaeological site is a must-see for anyone traveling to Vietnam. The spectacular and mysterious temple complex reflects the religion, culture, and architectural achievements of the ancient Kingdom of Champa, a powerful civilization that flourished centuries ago.

>>> Also read for the must-see destinations near the Sanctuary of My Son:

• Hue Vietnam, the 8 essential questions before going there
• Discovering Da Nang, Vietnam's most pleasant city
• Hoi An: Complete Guide and 15 Must-Do Activities

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