An Exceptional Visit to the Temple of Literature: Between Culture and History

In the heart of Hanoi, the vibrant capital of Vietnam, lies a relic steeped in history and steeped in culture: the Temple of Literature. My work in this monument of considerable renown offered me the privilege of exploring in depth this emblematic place, a true sanctuary linked to the founding of the capital of Thang Long under the Lý dynasty.

This captivating experience immersed me in a world where stories of the past come to life, offering a deep dive into Vietnam's rich literary and spiritual heritage. Inside the centuries-old walls of this sacred site, I discovered a spellbinding fusion of architectural grandeur and the wisdom of ancient teachings, providing a fascinating journey into the intersection of Vietnamese culture and history. 

Written by Van Khue (local expert) Updated on 27-03-2024

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1. Through the captivating story of Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám

In 1070, sixty years after the transfer of the capital of Đại Việt (former name of Vietnam in the 11th century) from Hoa Lư (Ninh Bình) to Hanoi, King Lý Thánh Tông erected the Văn Miếu (Temple of Literature), where famous Chinese men of letters are revered: Confucius, Duke of Zhou, as well as the four most eminent disciples of Confucius and the 72 typical Confucian scholars honored as sages.

As a devout Buddhist and possessing a wealth of cultural knowledge, King Lý decided to select the best values ​​of Confucianism to promote the country's cultural development and defense. He sent his Prince to the Temple of Literature to study there. In 1076, King Lý Nhân Tông (the son of King Lý Thánh Tông) founded the Quốc Tử Giám (National College, currently known as the First University of Vietnam), where civilian mandarins continued their studies.

The founding of the "Temple of Literature - National College", dedicated to the sages of antiquity and reserved for the training of virtuous and talented men for Đại Việt, promoted the spirit of independence and the construction of the nation Vietnamese. Through different dynasties, the Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám (Temple of Literature ) was successively expanded. In the 15th century, the National College had become the National Institute of Advanced Studies, open to the sons of mandarins as well as to gifted children from other classes, thus becoming the main center of Confucian education training thousands of elites for Vietnam .

2. The geniuses dedicated to the Temple of Literature

Confucius: Renowned Chinese philosopher, professor, and political theorist. His canonical and classic works are the foundations of Confucianism, advocating moral conduct, family leadership, governmental justice and the preservation of peace. This doctrine largely contributed to structuring feudal society, establishing its principles, norms and social relations. Confucius is honored by posterity as the "Master of ten thousand generations."

Chu Văn An: Under the Trần dynasty, holding a doctorate, he refused the mandarinship. He opened a school in his native village, training many talents for the country. Asked in the 13th century to direct the National College, he embodied the very model of the Vietnamese Master. His contribution to the education of Vietnam and surrounding countries was considerable.

King Lý Thánh Tông: Founder of the Temple of Literature in 1070 in honor of Confucius and his disciples, he worked for the development of the country, particularly in the cultural and educational fields.

King Lý Nhân Tông: Elder of King Lý Thánh Tông, he was an enlightened, talented, compassionate sovereign, gifted in both military and musical affairs. In 1075, he organized the first competition in the history of Vietnamese education. In 1076, he founded Quốc Tử Giám (Vietnam's First National University), contributing significantly to the development of the country's culture and Confucian education.

King Lê Thánh Tông: Enlightened and determined monarch under the Lê dynasty in the 15th century, he was gifted in both cultural and military fields. He expanded the Temple of Literature - National University, transforming it into a sumptuous architectural ensemble. Promoter of Confucian education, he established the organization of the national competition every three years and regulated the erection of steles of doctors at the Temple of Literature to encourage the love of studies and glorify the brilliant scholars in the Thai district Học.

3. How were studies at the first university in Vietnam?

Studies at Quốc Tử Giám (National College) began in 1076 under the Lý dynasty, evolved and perfected during the Lê period in the 15th century, ending in 1919. Teaching focused on study commentaries on classical texts as well as on literary composition. Students immersed themselves in the study of the classic and canonical books of Confucius, in addition to collections of poetry, works of classical literature, and Chinese and Vietnamese history.

Students spent 3 to 7 years studying at the National College. The winners of the regional competitions then prepared for the national competition, consisting of four tests:

• Literary composition consisting of developing and explaining a sentence taken from classic books.
• Imperial proclamations, edicts and placelets.
• Certain types of poetry.
• Literary composition based on answers to preliminary questions or developments of subjects posed beforehand.

The winners of the national competition had the opportunity to participate in the higher royal competition which took place at the royal palace, under the authority of the King. The questions always focused on good governance policies. The highest distinction for those who passed this competition was the inscription of their name on a stone stele, erected at the Temple of Literature, thus preserving their memory for eternity.

During more than 700 years of existence (11th-18th centuries), Quốc Tử Giám in Hanoi trained thousands of elites for the country. Across several dynasties, these elites contributed greatly to the development of culture, education and prosperity of Vietnam.

4. Discovering architecture and original viewpoints

Located south of the city of Hanoi, the vestige extends over an area of ​​more than 5 ha with many old monuments with topped roofs, nestled under the shade of large green trees all year round. It is made up of 2 districts: 

• The exterior includes the Garden of Giám (vườn Giám) and the Lake of Literature (Hồ Văn - a lake lined with flower gardens with a lovely pavilion located in the middle of a 7000m2 water area). 
• The inner district has 5 parts surrounded by old brick walls, and rich in beautiful landscapes and heritage to discover.

Passing through the large Van Mieu Mon gate, visitors enter a fresh and green space, decorated with water features, carpets of grass, large banyan trees, magnificent Bodhi trees, as well as robust mango trees planted symmetrically with each side of the Royal Way (formerly reserved for kings and nobility) in the center. Calm, serene and airy, all the hustle and bustle of the city seems to stop on the other side of the brick wall. Layer by layer, the ancient structures, the moss-covered roofs, gradually emerge as visitors pass through the gardens. 

From ancient times until today, traditional Vietnamese education is marked by the maxim: 'Tiên học lễ, hậu học Văn' (go to school first to learn to behave well, then consolidate the knowledge to progress in the career). This is why the first part of the Monument is called the 'Entry into the Educational Doctrine' (Nhập Đạo). It is a beautiful garden leading us to the Great Middle Gate (Đại Trung), on two sides are placed two small gates called "Accomplishment of Virtue" (Thành Đức) and Realization of Talent (Đạt Tài) which emphasizes the aim of education to train virtuous and talented men.

The second district named 'The Great Success' (Thành đạt) also has two small gates, 'Magnificence of Letters' and 'Crystallization of Letters' (Súc văn and Bí Văn), celebrating the beauty of literature. There we find the Khuê Văn Các, a very original pavilion with two floors and eight roofs topped with round windows, similar to the sun's rays opening on all sides. Its name evokes the constellation Khuê, honored by scholars. Built in 1805, Khuê Văn Các is today chosen as the symbol of the capital Hanoi.

The third part, the Garden of Steles, attracts all eyes with the density of 82 doctors' steles in blue stone, arranged parallel on either side of the Well of Heavenly Clarity (Thiên quang). You can take magnificent photos in the steles garden or next to the Thiên Quang well, under the shade of the banyan trees and the roofs of the Khuê Văn pavilion.

Another door opens before us, the 'Great Synthesis' (Đại Thành), with two small side doors, 'Golden Sound' (Kim Thanh) and 'Jade Object' (Ngọc Chấn), praising the qualities of talented and virtuous scholars; then we come to the fourth part. This houses the 'Great Ceremonial House' (Bái Đường) and the Temple of Confucius... with magnificent pillars, altars, gilded lacquered wooden statues and superb bonsai trees in the courtyard.

The fifth part (the former location of Quốc Tử Giám) is the Thái Học district. There you can admire a huge 500-year-old banyan tree, beautiful traditional architecture with tiled roofs in the shape of dragon scales, crossing the sky like the wings of a phoenix. There you can see numerous monthly exhibitions of paintings, artistic photos, art objects, and learn more about the lives of great Vietnamese teachers and cultural figures.

5. The most precious objects of Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám

The most precious objects of Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám are the 82 doctors' steles which bear the names and places of origin of 1307 doctors, winners of the competitions from 1442 to 1779. One cannot truly know the Temple of Literature without admire the garden of doctors’ steles. These original stone pieces contain a wide variety of valuable information.

Each stele was dedicated to a national competition. They are all engraved with a text glorifying the King, recalling the purpose of the competitions and the erection of the stele, the number of candidates, the list of the jury, as well as the mandarins responsible for the erection of the stele. We also find the prize list including the names, first names, dates and places of birth of the winners.

Architecturally, the steles all rest on the back of a turtle, a symbol of longevity, one of the four fabulous animals alongside the dragon, the unicorn and the phoenix. Each displays the symbols of the dynasty. They vary in size, decorated with delicate designs, and were erected immediately after the competition or sometimes a few years later. 

6. Cultural activities on request

• Experiment with heritage education (traditional printing, use of brushes, mastery of Chinese ink)
• Learn calligraphy and practice writing sacred characters
• Admire cultural exhibitions and artistic photographs
• Participate in the New Year and Mid-Autumn Festival festivals
• Local guides and self-guided tours
• Visit the monument in the evening (Wednesday, Friday, Saturday) with light representations 

Tourists will have the opportunity to enjoy a feast of dazzling lights, traditional music and a taste of the quintessence of Vietnamese educational history during the night tour of the Van Mieu - Quoc Tu Giam (Temple of Literature) in the heart of Hanoi.

7. How to get to the Temple of Literature from the city center?

The journey from the city center (Hoàn Kiếm Lake) to the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu Quốc Tử Giám) is approximately 2.5 km. Visitors have several options for getting around, including public transportation such as bus or taxi, as well as using their own means of transportation such as motorbike rental in Hanoi.

For those who opt for the bus, several lines are available: 02, 23, 25, 38, 41, serving or passing near the Temple of Literature site. However, those using their own means of transport can follow this route from Hoàn Kiếm Lake: take Lý Thái Tổ Street, turn right onto Tràng Thi Street, then continue towards Cửa Nam - Nguyễn Khuyến Street before turn left onto Văn Miếu Street. After a short further journey, you will reach your destination.

8. Points to consider when visiting Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám 

• Wear appropriate, clean, neat and respectful clothing, and adopt a serious attitude.
• Never bring flammable or explosive objects into the Temple of Literature.
• Limit yourself to lighting a single stick of incense in the right place indicated for the offerings.
• Walk gently, speak quietly and keep the landscape environment clean.
• Refrain from engaging in superstitious, fraudulent or gambling activities in the Temple of Literature.
• Do not damage the objects on display, do not write or draw, do not climb on the statues or tombstones of doctors, do not touch the heads of turtles, nor the steles and other objects on display.

Some images of the Temple of Literature in the evening:

My last words,

Each step within this place steeped in history and culture offers an immersion into the very heart of the past. The Temple of Literature is not content to be a simple place to visit, but an experience where the present intertwines harmoniously with the past heritage. This is an experience not to be missed during your visit to Hanoi, if you want to deepen your knowledge of a fundamental piece of the capital's thousand-year-old history.

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