Dien Bien Phu: The Battle That Shook the French Empire

Nestled in Vietnam''s North-West basin, Dien Bien Phu, once a site of brutal Indochina War battles, has transformed into a vibrant region. The lush landscape now thrives with rice cultivation, while historical remnants bear witness to past sacrifices. Join us as we delve into Dien Bien Phu''s history, exploring the vestiges of this border town with a poignant past, and admiring the beauty of its nature today!

Written by Daphne Ha (Travel Blogger) Updated on 09-12-2024

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Dien Bien Phu – The peaceful Vietnam rice granary transformed into a battlefield

Dien Bien or Dien Bien Phu stands as the provincial capital of the province of Dien Bien, located almost 450 kilometers northwest of Hanoi. This town sits in a beautiful and peaceful basin surrounded by green mountains, 18 km long and between 6 and 8 km wide. It is a large rice granary of the H'mong ethnic groups and especially the Thai who live in very pretty traditional wooden houses on stilts.

Dien Bien Phu had been almost unknown until 1954 as a capital for the border administration. On November 20, 1953, the French army, through Operation Castor, entailed General Jean Gilles, who sent groups of paratroopers, to occupy the plain of Dien Bien Phu to create a large, fortified camp. This operation intended to concentrate and prepare for a big offensive and above all, to cut the Vietminh access to Laos.

On the Vietminh side, General Vo Nguyen Giap was also determined through this battle to put an end to this war that had lasted too long in Vietnam. The fierce battle of Dien Bien Phu then began 4 months later. The Dien Bien Phu Valley was the scene of the deadliest battle in post-World War II history.

Dien Bien Phu 1954

The war in Dien Bien Phu dragged on for a fateful 56 days and nights, from March 13, 1954, to May 7, 1954. The furious fighting occurred around the strongpoint -- hills in the center of the Dien Bien Phu basin which the troops of General Charles de la Croix de Castries called by the feminine names of young girls such as Anne Marie, Béatrice, Isabelle, Huguette, Eliane, Gabrielle...

The Battle of Dien Bien Phu was extremely fraught with consequences and losses on both sides. Of a total of 70,000 soldiers present, it is estimated about 8,000 Vietminh fighters killed and 15,000 wounded during the battle and some 3,000 soldiers killed or missing in the French army. Of the total of 16,000 French soldiers who took part in the operation, only 3,300 were able to return to France after the battle of Dien Bien Phu. Such was the last battle for Dien Bien Phu, which meant also a conclusion to the French presence in Vietnam in particular and Indochina in general.

Dien Bien Phu today

Dien Bien Phu is one of the strongest evidences of the history of French colonization in Vietnam and Indochina. After the war, the valley was restored to peace and life gradually returned to normal. Barb wire and trenches transformed into rice fields beyond sight and only a few carcasses of tanks and cannons remain in this former battlefield as well as some fortified hills to give testaments to a tragic past of the Indochina war. All of these remains are found within the city center of Dien Bien today, except for General Giap's command post in Muong Phang, some 40 km away from the city center.

>>> Click to find more about Vietnam Practical Information.

And here are all the must-experience visits by this historic city, in the sequence by which one can take a walk in the otherwise pleasant air:

• Hill A1 or Hill Eliane

• Military Cemetery of Vietnamese Fighters

Located right next to Eliane, the military cemetery of Vietnamese fighters awaits you in a special atmosphere: solemn yet moving. Hundreds of soldiers' graves, most of which are unmarked, are lined up behind a huge sign displaying the names and places of birth of all those soldiers killed during the battle.

• Dien Bien Phu Battle Museum

Just across the graveyard resides the museum of the battle at Dien Bien Phu that was reconstructed and made in the shape of a hat covered with a camouflage net alluding to the fighter hats in past years. Within the bounds of more than 20,000 square meters, the visitors once again come to know the battle within a video with illustrations alongside thousands of things, photos, documents, and so on, "retracing the fighting, the lives of the combatants, the history of the prisoners and the impact of the battle on the decolonization process celebrating worldwide.

A huge panoramic work inside the Historic Victory Museum of the city depicts the battlefield of Dien Bien Phu. This oil painting on canvas has dimension-intimidating figures: 132 in length and 20.5 in height and divided into four scenes: the preparation for battle, the majestic prelude, confrontation which rewrites history and the fourth scene-the final victory.

• De Castries Command Post

The De Castries command post is located a few hundred meters from the museum. This vestige, covered with metal plates and earthbags, is the place where the French general staff was located on May 7, 1954. During your visit, you can discover how De Castries directed operations there with the help of posters and panels displayed along the entrenchment.

• Commemoration for French Soldiers

About 200 meters from the De Castries PC, you'll find the modest monument commemorating the French soldiers who died during the battle. This symbolic cemetery dedicated to French soldiers was built on the initiative of a former soldier of the Foreign Legion. Simple yet solemn, this memorial is cared for by a former volunteer Vietnamese soldier.

• Bailey Portable Bridge

Finally, the Bailey portable bridge, dating from 1941 and now known as Muong Thanh, is also worth a visit. This famous bridge has remained intact since the end of the battle. It crosses the Nâm Rôn River and will take you to the central market of Dien Bien Phu. A stroll through this bustling market is also an opportunity to encounter ethnic groups in traditional costumes and discover all the local specialties, including Dien Bien rice, which is highly regarded by the Vietnamese for its distinctive flavor.

• Hill D1

From the central market and after making several hundred steps, the D1 hill or Dominque has boasted a large monument since 2004-an emblem of the city in bronze weighing 220 tons. 

Apart from such possibly worthy visits in the city center, the rest are scattered throughout the basin: a few tanks and artillery pieces here and there by car, alongside the Dien Bien airport which itself was one of the two airfields of the French army. Among the options left for those with a little more time, General the Giap's command post hidden in the forests of Pu Don, Muong Phang is by far an excellent choice of destination for those who seek to dip into nature at its purest.  

Thai villages around the city of Dien Bien are another good attraction. The Thai women are easily recognized because of their barbeque hairstyle and their beautiful costume; they will be there.

>>> A rendezvous with the Hmong and Thai in northern Vietnam!

The best Dien Bien Phu films to see before you leave

Dien Bien Phu in 1954 was a tragic military disaster for both sides, the French and the Vietnamese. No one emerges victorious from war. Therefore, it is essential to uphold the duty of remembrance with the aim of moving forward together, prioritizing reconciliation above all. Consequently, numerous documentaries and films have been created on this subject. In this article, we find it relevant to recommend two films to watch before embarking on the trip.

1. Dien Bien Phu (Pierre Schoendoerffer - 2004)

This is an authentic war film directed by Pierre Schoendoerffer, a veteran of the Indochina conflict. "Dien Bien Phu" meticulously chronicles the events in the Dien Bien Phu basin, almost day by day. It offers a quasi-documentary portrayal of the battle's atmosphere through the lens of a war reporter. This film provides valuable insights into the circumstances surrounding the end of French colonization in Indochina.

2. Ciel Rouge (Olivier Lorelle – 2017)

A tale of love. This exquisite epic unfolds amidst the stunning natural landscapes of Vietnam and offers an aesthetically captivating contemplation of war, as well as a fresh perspective on the shared colonial history that binds the destinies of both nations. The film weaves a poignant love story for its central characters. Philippe embarks on a mission to pacify an unfamiliar land replete with dense forests and breathtaking mountains. However, his ideals crumble as he confronts the grim reality of having to torture and kill a young Vietminh fighter, who is passionately fighting for her people's independence. In a courageous decision, Philippe chooses to escape with her on an unpredictable journey deep into the heart of the jungle. Left to their own devices, they embark on a transformative odyssey that ultimately reveals their true selves.

In conclusion

In addition to being the great vestige of the Indochina War which interests history lovers, particularly the history of the Indochina Wars, Dien Bien Phu is also the largest rice-growing valley in North-West Vietnam with its fabulous minority ethnic groups. Exploring Dien Bien Phu goes beyond the realm of historical war tourism; it represents an authentic immersion into the rich tapestry of Vietnam's ethnic cultures, landscapes, and natural wonders.

>>> Get more information about Northern Vietnam:

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• Ha Giang: 6 Essential Things to Know Before You Go
• Sapa Travel Guide 2024: Tips and Things to know for a successful trip
• Cao Bang: Complete guide for a successful trip
• Pu Luong Nature Reserve: 6 questions to consider before you go