Dien Bien Phu: The Battle That Shook the French Empire

Nestled in Vietnam''s North-West basin, Dien Bien Phu, once a site of brutal Indochina War battles, has transformed into a vibrant region. The lush landscape now thrives with rice cultivation, while historical remnants bear witness to past sacrifices. Join us as we delve into Dien Bien Phu''s history, exploring the vestiges of this border town with a poignant past, and admiring the beauty of its nature today!

Written by Daphne Ha (Travel Blogger) Updated on 11-05-2024

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Dien Bien Phu – The peaceful Vietnam rice granary transformed into a battlefield

Dien Bien Phu, nestled in a picturesque basin in northwestern Vietnam, was once a tranquil rice-producing region known for its charming stilt houses and the livelihoods of the H'mong and Thai ethnic communities. However, its fate took a dramatic turn in 1953 when it became the focal point of a pivotal battle in the First Indochina War.

Under Operation Castor, the French army, led by General Jean Gilles, transformed this peaceful landscape into a fortified camp. The aim was to launch a major offensive against the Viet Minh and block their access to neighboring Laos. This marked the beginning of the Battle of Dien Bien Phu, a fierce confrontation that would ultimately change the course of history. The once peaceful rice granary of Dien Bien Phu became a battleground, forever etched in the annals of warfare.

On the Viet Minh side, General Vo Nguyen Giap was equally resolute in ending the protracted war in Vietnam. Four months later, the ferocious Battle of Dien Bien Phu commenced. The valley of Dien Bien Phu bore witness to the deadliest battle in the post-World War II era.

Dien Bien Phu 1954

The Battle of Dien Bien Phu took place over 56 days and nights, from March 13, 1954, to May 7, 1954. Fierce battles raged around the strongholds – hills in the heart of the Dien Bien Phu basin – that General Charles de la Croix de Castries' troops had named after young girls such as Anne Marie, Béatrice, Isabelle, Huguette, Eliane, Gabrielle….

The battle of Dien Bien Phu had devastating consequences and resulted in heavy losses on both sides. It is estimated that out of a total of 70,000 soldiers present, approximately 8,000 Vietminh fighters were killed, 15,000 were wounded during the battle, and around 3,000 soldiers were killed or went missing among the French army's troops. Of the total 16,000 French soldiers who participated in the operation, only 3,300 returned to France after the battle of Dien Bien Phu. Dien Bien Phu was not only the final battle but also marked the end of the French presence in Vietnam, particularly in Indochina as a whole.

Dien Bien Phu today

Dien Bien Phu undoubtedly remains one of the most significant vestiges of French colonization history in Vietnam and Indochina. After the war, peace returned to the valley, and life gradually resumed its normal rhythm. Vast rice fields now stretch as far as the eye can see, replacing the barbed wire and trenches, leaving behind only a few tank and cannon carcasses, as well as certain fortified hills as evidence of the tragic past of the Indochina War. All of these remnants are located in the city center of Dien Bien today, except for General de Giap's command post in Muong Phang, which is situated about 40 km from the city center.

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Here are some of the must-see attractions in this historic city, listed in a sequence that makes for a pleasant stroll:

• Hill A1 or Hill Eliane

It is one of the French army's support points in the heart of the valley. Surrounded by barbed wire and several layers of entrenchments, Eliane was the last hill to be attacked by the Viet Minh in 1954. The fighting on Eliane hill was the most intense and fierce. You can visit a huge crater formed by the explosion of 969 kg of TNT in the middle of the hill, as well as the entrenched positions and some tanks displayed on the hill. From this central hill, you can enjoy a panoramic view of part of the city of Dien Bien.

• Military Cemetery of Vietnamese Fighters

Located right next to Eliane, the military cemetery of Vietnamese fighters awaits you in a special atmosphere: solemn yet moving. Hundreds of soldiers' graves, most of which are unmarked, are lined up behind a huge sign displaying the names and places of birth of all those soldiers killed during the battle.

• Dien Bien Phu Battle Museum

The Dien Bien Phu Battle Museum is situated directly opposite the cemetery. Recently rebuilt, it is designed in the shape of a hat covered with camouflage netting, reminiscent of the hats worn by fighters in the past. In a space of more than 20,000 square meters, visitors can rediscover the unfolding of the battle through a video presentation with illustrations, thousands of objects, photos, and documents. These exhibits trace the battles, the lives of the combatants, the history of the prisoners, and the impact of the battle on the process of decolonization around the world.

A huge panoramic artwork reflects the Dien Bien Phu battlefield in the city's Historical Victory Museum. This oil painting, created on canvas, boasts impressive dimensions: 132 meters in length and 20.5 meters in height, divided into four scenes: the preparation for combat, the majestic prelude, the historic confrontation, and the final victory.

• De Castries Command Post

The De Castries command post is located a few hundred meters from the museum. This vestige, covered with metal plates and earthbags, is the place where the French general staff was located on May 7, 1954. During your visit, you can discover how De Castries directed operations there with the help of posters and panels displayed along the entrenchment.

• Commemoration for French Soldiers

About 200 meters from the De Castries PC, you'll find the modest monument commemorating the French soldiers who died during the battle. This symbolic cemetery dedicated to French soldiers was built on the initiative of a former soldier of the Foreign Legion. Simple yet solemn, this memorial is cared for by a former volunteer Vietnamese soldier.

• Bailey Portable Bridge

Finally, the Bailey portable bridge, dating from 1941 and now known as Muong Thanh, is also worth a visit. This famous bridge has remained intact since the end of the battle. It crosses the Nâm Rôn River and will take you to the central market of Dien Bien Phu. A stroll through this bustling market is also an opportunity to encounter ethnic groups in traditional costumes and discover all the local specialties, including Dien Bien rice, which is highly regarded by the Vietnamese for its distinctive flavor.

• Hill D1

Located just opposite the central market and nestled at the end of a few hundred steps, Hill D1, known as Dominique for the French, has been home to a large bronze monument emblematic of the city since 2004, weighing 220 tonnes.

Other sites are scattered throughout the basin. When traveling by car, you will come across several tanks, artillery pieces, and Dien Bien Airport, which was one of the French army's two airfields. For those with more time and a desire to immerse themselves in nature, General de Giap's command post, hidden in the forests of Pu Don, Muong Phang, is an excellent destination choice.

The Thai villages surrounding the town of Dien Bien are also a great attraction. You'll easily spot Thai women, recognizable by their characteristic buns and beautiful attire, in these villages.

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The best Dien Bien Phu films to see before you leave

Dien Bien Phu in 1954 was a tragic military disaster for both sides, the French and the Vietnamese. No one emerges victorious from war. Therefore, it is essential to uphold the duty of remembrance with the aim of moving forward together, prioritizing reconciliation above all. Consequently, numerous documentaries and films have been created on this subject. In this article, we find it relevant to recommend two films to watch before embarking on the trip.

1. Dien Bien Phu (Pierre Schoendoerffer - 2004)

This is an authentic war film directed by Pierre Schoendoerffer, a veteran of the Indochina conflict. "Dien Bien Phu" meticulously chronicles the events in the Dien Bien Phu basin, almost day by day. It offers a quasi-documentary portrayal of the battle's atmosphere through the lens of a war reporter. This film provides valuable insights into the circumstances surrounding the end of French colonization in Indochina.

2. Ciel Rouge (Olivier Lorelle – 2017)

A tale of love. This exquisite epic unfolds amidst the stunning natural landscapes of Vietnam and offers an aesthetically captivating contemplation of war, as well as a fresh perspective on the shared colonial history that binds the destinies of both nations. The film weaves a poignant love story for its central characters. Philippe embarks on a mission to pacify an unfamiliar land replete with dense forests and breathtaking mountains. However, his ideals crumble as he confronts the grim reality of having to torture and kill a young Vietminh fighter, who is passionately fighting for her people's independence. In a courageous decision, Philippe chooses to escape with her on an unpredictable journey deep into the heart of the jungle. Left to their own devices, they embark on a transformative odyssey that ultimately reveals their true selves.

In conclusion

In addition to being the great vestige of the Indochina War which interests history lovers, particularly the history of the Indochina Wars, Dien Bien Phu is also the largest rice-growing valley in North-West Vietnam with its fabulous minority ethnic groups. Exploring Dien Bien Phu goes beyond the realm of historical war tourism; it represents an authentic immersion into the rich tapestry of Vietnam's ethnic cultures, landscapes, and natural wonders.

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