One Puff Wonder: Thuoc Lao – Vietnamese Tobacco Like No Other

If you ask people about something new to try for a buzz in Vietnam, instead of smoking weed, every single Vietnamese person will mention Vietnamese tobacco or Thuoc Lao at the top of the list. Ever wondered what exactly is contained in this special tobacco known as Thuoc Lao among the locals?

In this blog, we present; the essence of its main ingredient, its cultural significance in the lives of native residents, and the typical contexts in which this important item is used by the Vietnamese people. We also explore authentic experiences you can enjoy in Vietnam and offer insights on how this fascinating tradition is embraced by first-time users.

Written by Oliver PHUNG (Local expert)Updated on 04-12-2024

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Table of contents

What is Thuoc Lao – Vietnamese Tobacco?
Vietnamese Traditions and Tobacco Smoking: A Deep Connection
Why Thuoc Lao Is a Must-Try in Vietnam?
How Thuoc Lao Differs from Other Global Tobacco Varieties?
How to Smoke Thuoc Lao for the First Time?
Choose Your Way to Get High: Smoking or Chewing?
How to Safely and Properly Smoke Thuoc Lao
Where to Smoke Thuoc Lao Like a Local?
FAQs (Click here to see!)

What is Thuoc Lao – Vietnamese Tobacco?

Thuoc Lao, aka Vietnamese Tobacco (scientific name: Nicotiana rustica), is a special tobacco plant grown primarily in the mountains of Northern Vietnam such as Ha Giang, Lao Cai, and Thanh Hoa. These mountainous regions have special features of climate and soil conditions that make them ideal for cultivating this tobacco, which is known for its full-bodied and spicy flavor. Making Vietnamese tobacco involves drying, curing, and sometimes fermenting, processes that enhance its unique flavor and richness, distinguishing it from industrial tobacco.

Thuoc Lao is a popular form of relaxation for many Vietnamese—used as an anti-stress remedy after a tiring day or as a digestive stimulant after meals. This habit has long been ingrained in daily life, especially during social activities like meeting with friends and relatives and is deeply tied to the traditional way of life, particularly in rural and mountainous areas.

Vietnamese Traditions and Tobacco Smoking: A Deep Connection

Tobacco smoking, like other ancient customs in Vietnam, holds deep cultural significance, especially in rural northern regions. Alongside tattooing and betel chewing, it has been a longstanding practice, particularly for men. Tobacco, especially Thuoc Lao, became a symbol of relaxation and expression, often shared in communal settings after a day’s work.

Unlike betel chewing, which involved simple rituals, tobacco smoking evolved into a more elaborate practice with various types of pipes, each contributing its own atmosphere. Over time, different regions developed unique methods and flavors, though Thuoc Lao remained popular in the countryside.

*The image of tobacco has been associated with the people of Annam since ancient times*

Smoking tobacco, deeply rooted in Vietnamese culture, symbolizes camaraderie and connection. Despite evolving consumption practices, it remains an integral part of Vietnam's heritage, reflecting the warmth and simplicity of rural life.

Why Thuoc Lao Is a Must-Try in Vietnam?

A common proverb in Vietnam said that a piece of betel is the beginning of the story but for most of the Vietnamese gentlemen, pipe-smoking really begins theirs. So let's see what makes Vietnamese tobacco special compared to regular cigarettes!

How Thuoc Lao Differs from Other Global Tobacco Varieties?

The most obvious distinction between Thuoc Lao and other types of tobacco, of course, lies in the tobacco used and the culture of smoking. Vietnamese tobacco is made from Nicotiana rustica, a wild variety with a high level of nicotine and a strong taste. In contrast to the Nicotiana tabacum used in most cigarettes, Nicotiana rustica offers a far richer taste, making Thuoc Lao much stronger.

Furthermore, in addition to the tobacco itself, the way it is consumed further distinguishes Thuoc Lao. In fact, in most cases, Thuoc Lao is smoked through a tightly sealed pipe, and it involves a certain dexterity in lighting and smoking to get the tobacco to burn correctly, without turning to ash. This is very much different from the more casual and individualistic way in which cigarettes are smoked by people in all other parts of the planet.

In addition, Thuoc Lao is part of social rituals, fostering friendship through communal pipes—unlike the West, where smoking cigarettes is a solitary habit. In Northern Vietnam, men still gather around the pipes at sidewalk cafes, just to enjoy the act of smoking together.

How to Smoke Thuoc Lao for the First Time?

If you are a cigarette smoker or a marijuana user, do not be confident that you will not fall for Vietnamese tobacco. Unlike the two smokes mentioned above; to use Vietnamese tobacco, you must also grasp the basic knowledge and skills to get high "phê" without feeling nauseous or getting sick. Below are the notes you need to know when enjoying this cultural feature during your trip to Vietnam.

How to Choose the Right Pipe for Thuoc Lao

As it has been mentioned before, Vietnamese use a pipe called a bamboo bong to smoke Thuoc Lao. Typically, there are 3 main types of bamboo bongs in Vietnam. Each type will be used for different spaces and levels of severity.

Bamboo Pipe (Điếu Cày)

Bamboo pipes, or “điếu cày,” are iconic tobacco items found in roadside tea shops along Northern Vietnam and across social media. The term originates from Vietnamese feudal farmers who used them after long days in the fields, much like a plow that was a constant companion.

Made from a bamboo tube, the pipe has a small hole at the top of the bowl, a sealed base to hold water, and an open front for inhaling smoke. The sound of the bubbling water is stimulating, but the smoke is strong and delivers a sharp hit to the throat, even for seasoned users. It's important to keep this in mind when trying it.

Pipe Bowl (Điếu Bát)

If you visit places like Duong Lam ancient village or Bat Trang pottery village in Hanoi, you’ll often encounter the bowl pipe (Điếu bát), a traditional pipe made of three parts: the bowl, the pipe, and the stem. The body is typically made from ceramic or porcelain, sometimes adorned with carvings or drawings. This pipe was mainly used by families and nobles, as it was not portable and required servants to light and handle it.

Guests would be invited to sit with a teapot and bowl of tea, while servants lit the pipe for both the host and guest, allowing them to relax and converse for hours. The bowl pipe produces less smoke compared to the bamboo pipe and has a gentler, less overpowering effect.

Tube Pipe (Điếu Ống)

It bears the features of a bamboo pipe but is an entirely superior version, reserved solely for kings and made from materials such as animal bones, valuable wood, gold, gemstones, or ivory. When used, it can be kept upright without needing to be held by hand, like a water pipe, and it has a handle. This particular type of pipe was exclusively used by the aristocracy in ages past, with a servant lighting it for you to smoke. Therefore, whenever you went out, a servant would carry the pipe for you.

Bowls and Tube pipes (Điếu ống) come in many variations of shape, combined with elaborate craftsmanship and made from valuable materials, making them not only works of art but also collectible items for tourists.

Choose Your Way to Get High: Smoking or Chewing?

Smoking

Grab hold of a bamboo or plastic pipe, buy a Vietnamese cigarette, light it, and voila! You’re ready to experience authentic Vietnamese-style smoking. For a taste of this ritual, visit any street drink stall—order a cup of green tea, wrap your cigarette, place it in a water pipe, light it, blow out the ash, then take a deep breath from the pipe along with some tea. As the smoke escapes from your mouth, you’ll experience the feeling locals call "phe," a state of being high.

A Hmong woman smoking tobacco at the market. — *A Hmong woman smoking tobacco at the market*

The effects of smoking from a pipe are slow to kick in, but they last longer. As you inhale the smoke, nicotine is absorbed steadily, providing a calming, relaxing experience over time. It’s a ritualistic act, often enjoyed in a meditative state. Some may even advise having someone sit behind you to catch you in case you get too high. The sound of the smoke escaping from the pipe becomes addictive, and the process offers a unique, lingering high.

Chewing

In contrast, chewing Vietnamese tobacco gives an effect that's quicker. Some locals even prefer this because it gives a relatively quick rush, as nicotine gets absorbed straight into the bloodstream through one's gums. The sensation is stronger and faster acting, although it is, in reality, a different ball game from smoking. Chewing tobacco provides a more intense, localized effect and this is probably what many people looking for a fast high would want. However, the actual experience might vary from person to person, given the quantity of tobacco and individual toleration.

>>> Good to Know: Chewing Thuoc Lao can cause a strong, dizzying sensation. However, combining it with betel leaf (trầu) helps reduce the feeling of intoxication. Betel chewing is also an important part of Vietnamese cultural heritage, traditionally associated with women.

How to Safely and Properly Smoke Thuoc Lao

Avoid deep inhales: Thuoc Lao is strong, so it's not very comfortable to take a deep inhale. Take shallow puffs and appreciate the taste and effects without harsh lung inhalation.
Limit the frequency of smoking: Keeping time between puffs can manage intensity and prevent feelings of overwhelming.
Stronger effects: Vietnamese tobacco can cause dizziness, light-headedness, or nausea if overused, so it's crucial to take breaks and know when to stop.
Long-term health risks: Thuoc Lao shares the serious health risks for the lungs and heart found in all smoking; moreover, its unfiltered status increases exposure to harmful chemicals.

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Where to Smoke Thuoc Lao Like a Local?

Workshops in Hanoi and Saigon

It’s easy to find places to smoke Thuoc Lao in Hanoi, from casual sidewalk cafés to tea shops showcasing tobacco pipes. For a quick experience, stop at a sidewalk stall, grab a glass of iced tea, and smoke at your leisure. For something more refined, the tea shops mentioned earlier offer an elegant setting to enjoy both the cultural ambiance and a pipe of tobacco.

In Saigon, the iced tea-and-tobacco culture is less common. While the city has vibrant street-side cafés, they typically don’t feature tobacco. However, a few tea shops have brought the Northern tradition to the South, offering a place to smoke Thuoc Lao.

Below are Google Maps of some well-known tobacco-themed tea shops in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City where you can indulge in this unique experience.

Traditional Villages of Thuoc Lao

As a popular tobacco in the northern region of Vietnam, Thuoc Lao can be found in famous tobacco villages. Villages in areas such as Sapa, Bac Ha, Ha Giang, Mai Chau and Thanh Hoa are known for their tobacco-growing traditions and unique methods of processing tobacco leaves. These regions offer a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of tobacco cultivation, where locals continue to uphold long-standing practices passed down through generations.

*People in Pu Luong are harvesting tobacco - Image source: Laodong.vn*

For visitors who want to delve deeper into this tradition, village tours offer an immersive experience. Provided by Kampá Tour, these tours allow visitors to interact with farmers, observe the careful tobacco-growing process, and witness traditional methods of drying and preserving tobacco leaves. Some tours even offer the chance to try Thuoc Lao firsthand, providing an authentic taste of Vietnam’s tobacco culture.

>>> Good to Know: Right in the heart of Hanoi, there used to be a street called Hang Dieu Street, an old quarter specializing in tobacco and pipes. It was the busiest area in Hanoi before the 20th century. Hang Dieu sold all kinds of tobacco pipes, such as silver-capped pipes, gold-capped pipes, bowl pipes, and plow pipes. Today, only a few houses in the area still sell these items, with some pipes over 200 years old still preserved and maintained. You can visit Hang Dieu Street to admire them.

Discover more about Hanoi Old Quarter here!

FAQs (Click here to see!)

Is Thuoc Lao Legal?

No, it's not illegal to smoke Thuoc Lao. While some believe it's less harmful than cigarettes, Thuoc Lao is addictive, and quitting can be difficult.

What effects does Thuoc Lao have?

The nicotine in Vietnamese tobacco is more concentrated compared to regular cigarettes, so it can cause dizziness, nausea, or a rapid heart rate if consumed in excess. While some enjoy the calming effects, it's important to use it in moderation, as overuse can lead to negative health effects, including addiction.

How long does Thuoc lao last?

The effects of Thuoc Lao typically last 30 minutes to an hour. Smoking provides an immediate "phê" (high) that fades gradually, while chewing can lead to more intense and longer-lasting effects due to direct nicotine absorption through the gums. The duration varies based on tolerance and consumption.

Where can I buy Thuoc Lao in Vietnam?

Thuoc Lao can be found in local markets, tobacco shops, and street-side tea stalls, particularly in northern regions like Hanoi, Ha Giang, and Sapa. Bamboo pipes for smoking Thuoc Lao, commonly handcrafted in Hanoi and Thanh Hoa, are also widely available and can be purchased alongside the tobacco at these locations. Prices for tobacco pipes range from 100K VND to 500K VND, depending on size and craftsmanship.

Can I bring thuoc lao outside vietnam?

Yes, you can bring Thuoc Lao outside Vietnam, but there are regulations depending on the destination country. For example, in the U.S., travelers over 21 can import up to 200 cigarettes or 100 cigars for personal use, but limits vary by country. Check local customs regulations for specific rules and potential duties or taxes here!

Conclusion

Vietnamese tobacco is not just a product; it embodies a rich cultural heritage and unique practices that reflect the identity of the Vietnamese people. This exploration of thuoc lao reveals its deep-rooted significance in social rituals and daily life. As you delve into this fascinating aspect of Vietnam, consider visiting the country to experience this cultural phenomenon authentically.