Hoang Su Phi: An Uncovered Treasure on the Ha Giang Loop

Many international travelers see pictures of endless green or golden rice fields as an enduring symbol of Vietnam. This scene is widespread across the country, but Hoang Su Phi is perhaps the best place to experience it. Located in Ha Giang province, this remote district is cherished for its untouched beauty and vast rice fields that form marvelous landscapes.

Apart from that, here you can also find the authentic lifestyles of various distinct ethnic groups. So, the following piece provides a guide to some must-visit places in the area.

Written by Oliver PHUNG (local expert)Updated on 30-08-2024

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1. Is Hoang Su Phi Worth Visiting?

Hoang Su Phi is a mountainous district located in the west of Hà Giang Province, Vietnam, about 80 km southwest of Ha Giang City and 310 km northwest of Hanoi. Although Hoàng Su Phi might still be unfamiliar to many tourists, it offers more authentic experiences compared to the renowned Mù Cang Chải, known for its impressive Vietnam's rice terraces. 

A pride of northern Vietnam’s mountainous region, Hoàng Su Phi features extensive rice terraces on rolling hills. In the autumn months, these fields turn a stunning golden yellow, showcasing the laborious work of Vietnamese farmers.

Besides its natural beauty, Hoang Su Phi is also home to 12 ethnic groups such as Nung; Dao; Tay; H’Mong among others who still preserve their cultures despite being around for centuries. Therefore, it serves as an appropriate location for both community based tourism as well as eco-tourism because of its diversity and well-maintained environment.

For adrenaline junkies looking for some action, Hoang Su Phi offers them treks along paths that lead through remote villages and hidden waterfalls. This haven is tranquilising enough to forget about urban hustle thus explains why there are cold winters; hot summers and mild spring temperatures giving room for visiting throughout the year.

2. When is the Best Time to Visit Hoang Su Phi?

No matter what other northern mountain provinces grow, whether maize or rice, there is only one crop of rice harvested annually in October. Therefore, one should arrive by early October to catch sight of the most stunning golden paddies just before they are cut down.

Each month has its own unique beauty. During the 'sowing season' (March through May), the fields resemble 'mirrors from paradise,' reflecting their heavenly quality when they are flooded and ready for planting. In summer, from July to August, the rice stalks grow tall, and the landscape becomes lush and green.

The harvest season arrives with autumn. From early September to early October, the hillsides are covered with golden paddy rice, offering breathtaking views for photography enthusiasts.

Overall, the period from late May to October is considered the most suitable time to visit Hoang Su Phi and catch majestic Vietnam rice terraces!

3. What to do and see?

3.1 Top Breathtaking Viewpoints You Can't Miss

Hoang Su Phi is renowned for its terraced rice fields, which have been declared national relics. Approximately 300 years ago, the La Chi, Dzao, and Nung ethnic groups first cultivated these terraces on the rocky mountain slopes and deep forests. Their ingenuity allowed them to maximize the limited fertile land and scarce water resources. The terraced fields of Hoang Su Phi cover about 3,000 hectares across several communes. Among these, the 760 hectares designated as a national relic site stand out, offering a unique experience for tourists traveling from Hanoi on the Ha Giang loop.

Below are some of the best places for visitors to admire these stunning sights:

• Ban Phung

In the extreme North, starting with the village of Phung (or Ban Phung), close to the border with China, the cultivated terraces are large and often shrouded in clouds and mist that surround the mountain peaks. Because rice matures later here than in other places, it is harvested by early to mid-October. Along with Ban Luoc, this area has the highest terraced rice fields in Vietnam.

There are also villages in Ban Phung populated by members of the La Chi ethnic group, who immigrated from China approximately 800 years ago. This group has maintained its unique way of life, including traditional farming methods and celebrations based on agriculture-related spiritual beliefs. A good example is the Khu Cu Te festival, which takes place in July when the La Chi offer prayers for a bountiful autumn harvest. Explore the diversity of other ethnic groups present in Vietnam.

• Ban Luoc

Dzao North region, Ban Luoc village represents Hoang Su Phi’s "national landscape area of terraced fields". This region provides the largest rice terraces area in Vietnam measuring about 200 hectares where you can enjoy sites such as beautiful valleys and natural streams flowing downwards while surrounding yourself with green terraced fields. Its steep mountainsides have the greatest concentration of vertical farming methods. 

For those wishing to get an insight into this paradise, hiking and staying in local residences is mandatory because they will show you how these staggering rice fields are part of daily life for its people.

>>> You might also be interested in: 7 Amazing Places to Catch Stunning Rice Fields in Vietnam!

• Nam Ty and Thong Nguyen

The third zone is situated on the southeast side of the district and encompasses the Nam Ty and Thong Nguyen settlements. Owing to its stunning geological features, it possesses rice terraces alongside the 'shan tuyet' tea groves in Phin Ho village. These century-old tea trees, some of which are probably over four centuries old, also have their own unique appeal. Besides, surrounded by such breathtaking nature, this outstanding starting point for magnificent hiking expeditions allows you to better connect with the surrounding community villages.

Amidst these breathtaking landscapes, you can catch a glimpse of the Dzao people's way of life and culture.

• Mount Tay Con Linh

At the northeastern edge of the region lies Tay Con Linh, considered the tallest mountain in Ha Giang. Standing at 2,427 meters, it is lower than Fansipan in Sapa, but what it lacks in height, it makes up for in the unique experiences it offers hikers. The ascent to this peak poses challenges that appeal to mountain climbing enthusiasts and those seeking natural adventures. Furthermore, it is a sacred mountain for the La Chi ethnic community

>>> For additional information on homestays in Vietnam.

• Chieu Lau Thi Summit

Chieu Lau Thi Mountain Peak is a must-visit destination for trekking enthusiasts, located 42 kilometers from Hoang Su Phi district. In addition to being one of the tallest peaks in the northeastern provinces, it offers some of the most stunning views you'll ever experience. With an altitude of over 2,400 meters, it ranks among the highest points in northeastern Vietnam. The mountain is home to various ecosystems, including primary forests and cultivation areas for snow teas, which are well-known among Vietnamese people. Only those who are physically fit and adventurous should attempt to reach its summit!

When it rains, mist often shrouds the mountains, creating a fairy-tale-like scene. Trekking Chieu Lau Thi is an experience everyone should try!

>>> Read more: 6 Most Majestic Trekking Spots in Vietnam

3.2 Exploring Ethnic Cultures & Traditions on the Hoang Su Phi

• Weekend Windfall: Local Markets

If you have time, check out the bustling ‘Chợ Phiên - Hoàng Su Phì’ (Hoang Su Phi Sunday Markets) along the loop. Every Sunday at the foot of Tay Con Linh, this market brings together members of various ethnic minorities, including the Tay, Nung, Dzao, and H’mong from remote villages such as Ban Luoc and Nam Ty. 

They come early to sell their products and purchase supplies for the week ahead. These gatherings display local foods, different kinds of belongings as well traditional garments providing a good opportunity for visitors to buy handmade souvenirs while interacting with the ethnic communities.

• Experience Rice Planting and Tea Picking

Agriculture is the economic spearhead of the Hoang Su Phi region that gives its visitors opportunities to join the townsfolk in planting rice, harvesting it or experiencing tea picking and roasting around.

To start off your journey, walk into these ancient terraces’ breath-taking coolness and richness with La Chi and Dzao farmers who have lived on this earth for more than 300 years. While planting rice seedlings in fields that have fed many generations, feel how much history flows under your fingers, each one being a living witness to the durability as well as creativeness of these mountainous communities.

At midday when the sun has risen higher above, make your way to Hoang Su Phi's hidden tea gardens where legendary Shan Tuyet grown 500-year-old tea trees are growing. These trees sometimes caressed by clouds produce such leaves carrying mountain spirits themselves. Here it is not just about getting out thing; rather it is relating yourself spiritually to land itself by plucking those delicate leaves off from tree branches roasting them before consuming them thus getting an original and unadulterated flavor from those teas that were carefully developed over centuries.

>>> Ready to explore the beauty of Hoang Su Phi? Discover our 2-Week Northern Vietnam Tour!

• Ethnic Melodies of Vietnam's Northern Highlands

We all agree that, "When language fails, music speaks," music is the universal language that without words, everyone can hear, feel and understand the message conveyed in the work.

The art of dancing with khèn (a panpipe-like instrument) is closely connected to Hmong lives. At cultural occasions, funerals, anniversaries or festivals they always dance with khèn. 

Sometimes they can be soft, romantic or full of enthusiasm sounds at the same time, while sometimes they may be quirky and beautiful dances too. Besides, the couple dance is the most delicate show among those dances. The man plays khèn and dances together with the woman wearing traditional dress for their ethnicity. They look like two pheasants in a sexual courtship act. Kicking heels and spinning bodies make khèns and tunes move together but couples inside are still linked to each other.

4. How many days to spend in Hoang Su Phi?

The ideal exploration of the stunning landscapes and unique ethnic cultures in Hoang Su Phi is through hiking. Off-the-beaten-path can be ventured into since this remote place has beautiful rice terraces. Take a 3 to 6-day trek and embrace bamboo forests along with Red Dao villages.

Adding homestays where possible would give you an even better experience during the journey of between 5 and 7 days. This trek will take you through Dao populated villages such as Ban Luoc, Thong Nguyen, Nam Khoa and Nam Ai among others. As such, it gives one a chance to enjoy breathtaking scenery while engaging in authentic cultural interaction.

5. Which Northern Vietnam Itineraries Can Be Combined with Hoang Su Phi?

The northeastern portion of Vietnam can be reached through this district (or it could be the end of your journey). This area features limestone plateaus, Dong Van Geopark, Ba Be Lake, and Cao Bang, all promising stunning landscapes and rich cultural immersion.

For those who wish to continue marveling at splendid rice terraces, the districts of Bac Ha, Sa Pa, Mu Cang Chai, and Nghĩa Lộ in the northwest of Vietnam should be their destination. This loop also takes you beyond famous places like Bắc Hà’s weekly market stalls or the beautiful ethnic villages in Mường Hoa Valley near Sa Pa, and especially the postcard-worthy terraced fields in Mù Cang Chải.

>>> Learn more about: The Black Lolo

6. How to get there?

The district can be accessed from Ha Giang, the provincial capital of the same name, from Sapa in the west, and from Hanoi in the south.

• Hà Giang to Hoang Su Phi: If you’re ready to leave Ha Giang City behind, a private taxi or motorbike can take you to Hoang Su Phi via National Road No. 2 (QL2). The distance is about 100 km, which can be covered in 2.5 to 3 hours, driving at an average speed of 40 km/h on hilly terrain with steep inclines and few straight roads.
• Sapa to Hoang Su Phi: There is a distance of 180 km between this district and Sapa. You can travel there by private car or motorbike (4-6 hours). Taking a bus is not recommended as it is a local line with basic comfort levels, worse than what Vietnamese people usually experience on trains, for example. Additionally, bus schedules are frequently unreliable.
• Hanoi to Hoang Su Phi: Hoàng Su Phì is approximately 300 kilometers from Hanoi, requiring a full day’s drive (6 to 8 hours) depending on your mode of transport (private car, motorbike, or bus). There is no direct public transport, so you must first travel to Ha Giang before continuing to Hoàng Su Phi by bus. While motorbikes offer flexibility, they can be risky due to the long and winding roads. Thus, a private car is the most reliable, fastest, and safest option.

7. Local cuisine not to be missed

• Shan Tuyet

Remember to take home bags of the previously mentioned "Shan Tuyết," a superior quality tea. It is made from the youngest buds of century-old tea plants in Tay Con Linh. The year-round fog covering the mountains provides ideal conditions for their cultivation. Shan Tuyết is esteemed for its pure aroma and distinct sweetness, as well as its recognized health benefits.

• Craft Beer, Buckwheat Ale

For any beer lover, this should not be missed. Buckwheat beer is a unique local product from Ha Giang loop, made from the region’s famous buckwheat. 

Each bottle of beer captures a bit of cold night smoke, a hint of cat’s ear frost, and the deep flavor of highland buckwheat, using seeds originally cultivated by the Mong people in Vietnam's early history. With nutty notes and delicate sweetness, it pairs perfectly with the hearty dishes common in these regions.  This beer epitomizes Northern Vietnam, especially after a long day exploring beautiful rice terraces and ancient villages.

• Smoked meat

The smoked meat, considered a year-round specialty of Ha Giang, serves as both a classic dish and an emblematic offering from this highland region. Large pieces of buffalo and pig are well-mixed with spices and then placed on the stove. The unique aspect is that it is marinated with ginger, chili, and mac khen, a type of seed native to the mountains.

Buffalo meat, which is tougher and richer in flavor compared to pork, is sliced into long fibers, threaded onto sticks, and hung over the stove to dry. This is how the typical Ha Giang smoked meats are prepared. Though more expensive than pork products, these dishes offer a unique culinary experience that is not to be missed.

Conclusion

At the extreme end of Viet Nam in the North is a place that will make you marvel at how nature and man can live together in complete harmony. It’s worth your while to pay a visit to the Hoang Su Phi region while passing Ha Giang to see those amazing staircases that colorful cultivation forms have built and taste their indigenous food.

>>> Discover more attractive destinations in Vietnam: 

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